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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 11:27 AM
  #31  
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The other reason I installed the studs is I really hate to run bolts in and out of aluminum holes on my 68, its only a matter of time and the threads will go away
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #32  
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another thing thats a good idea is to upgrade the primary cables to your battery and starter and all points in between.
 

Last edited by Rodney; Sep 21, 2008 at 11:38 AM.
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 11:59 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by vetto
After I got the solenoid to release (by pulling the clutch a few times) I put it all back together and tried to start it again...same thing happened. Solenoid got stuck.

I am getting a new battery (odyssey), new starter relay, and am going to pull the solenoid apart to check it out. It looks like an Accel solenoid.

UPDATE: just looked at it again from directly above and the solenoid is not square longitudinally with the primary. It looks like the bolts that connect it to the primary are pulling that side in...there are no spacers between the bracket and the primary case. Should it be perfectly square to the case?
another thing with this, just cuz i've seen it before, even if the spacer is in there for the solenoid, doesn't mean it's all good. I've seen the inner primary chaincase get rounded over where the spacer gets mounted up to, and then the solenoid isn't square and the primary isn't sealed up tight - I took my spacer to the grinder and ground it to a slight angle to square the solenoid up.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 06:55 PM
  #34  
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d slat ... the spacer is there after all. It is a small square washer about 1/4 inch thick. There is no primary fluid (ATF) leaking out, so I wont worry about it right now...will add it to the "project list" on the garage wall.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 07:55 AM
  #35  
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I just had a discussion with my Electrician (I work in a military technical support organization) about how weak battery voltage can cause high current and he agreed and even explained it to me.

What we cannot figure out is why weak voltage would cause the starter gear to jam in the ring gear...can anyone help here?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 09:49 AM
  #36  
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low battery voltage wouldn't cause the gear to jam, but if the contacts in the starter solenoid would weld together, it would hold the starter gear engaged to the ring gear. Make sure to check hogdoctor's reply to your thread about the gears being meshed too tight, it's worth trying.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 10:57 AM
  #37  
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What releases the bendix...is it the lever arm that pushes it back or is it thrown out like in a car starter?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 11:00 AM
  #38  
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I have had to shim a car starter back once to keep the bendix from jamming in the flywheel...curious if you can shim a harley starter back? how much room is there on the gear?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by vetto
What releases the bendix...is it the lever arm that pushes it back or is it thrown out like in a car starter?
their is a spring { a couple actually} in the linkage which holds the starter drive in a neutral position {disengaged}. I would guess once the engine fires this also pushes the started drive out of the ring gear if everything is aligned properly.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 01:17 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by vetto
I have had to shim a car starter back once to keep the bendix from jamming in the flywheel...curious if you can shim a harley starter back? how much room is there on the gear?
once you remove the outer primary cover you will see the bushing and or starter shaft drive nut which also acts as a support and engages in the bearing in the outer primary.
If all of the parts are aligned properly the nut support acts as a stop not allowing the started drive to engage any further than necessary using the outer primary as the final stop, with the thrust washer installed as to not wear the aluminum primary.
 
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