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Compensating Sprocket Nut

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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Gully
Thanks for all the advise. I can honestly say I have never come up against a nut like this in my while life (except maybe my wife)..I am convinced that it is welded and I just can't see the bead! I have heated it (in 3 min increments) and let it cool several times, tried the 1/2 impact both ways for I don't know how long and am using a 3/4" drive and socket on a (new) 2 1/2 foot breaker bar and am lifting the rear of the bike right off the ground (on a stand to keep it upright) with the pressure on it....I need a way to strap the bike to the ground and get a pipe for more leverage...if that does not work then I give up and will load the bike up and take it to a garage...I hate giving up though! I am definitely no softy, but this bike is kicking my ***...(and back). Thanks again..that nut is coming off one way or another soon!
Try only heating up one part of the nut instead of the whole nut. this might work too. Last resort is to split the nut! If you can get a die grinder with a carbide bur or a dremmle and cut into the nut but not to the threads then it will literaly break when you put a socket on it. Could try and rotate it using a hamer and chisle and it sounds like the nut isnt going to servive anyways.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 07:57 PM
  #12  
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Don't let it cool down after heating. Go ahead and try to move it while its hot. With the nut heated, the metal will be expanded. Letting it cool down will let it go back to its original form.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #13  
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Don't be going crazy with a hammer on the end of that shaft to hard or you will tweak flywheels . Load it up and find a bigger impact or your going to get into trouble and cost a lot of money . It always goes to hell when it gets this frustrating so heads up man .
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 08:56 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Don't be going crazy with a hammer on the end of that shaft to hard or you will tweak flywheels . Load it up and find a bigger impact or your going to get into trouble and cost a lot of money . It always goes to hell when it gets this frustrating so heads up man .
Good advise which I will take! I am not interested in screwing up the bottom end any worse than it already is!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 06:03 AM
  #15  
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If you haven't noticed yet, you are not alone with this problem!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 08:26 AM
  #16  
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Do yourself a favor and take it to somebody with big impact and big air.

I had one that even the 3/4 impact took a while to loosen.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #17  
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Cheap big one from Harbor Freight. Turn pressure up on compressor. Be sure to read manual. On a TC you must drop tensioner to bottom. See my complete album for my blow by blow. Note complete text at bottom of each shot
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 11:08 AM
  #18  
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Just read the album notes Ripsaw.............nice job.

Of the methods listed prior, I like them all except cutting the nut. Though I have removed nuts in other applications by cutting into it just short of the threads with a dremel and a heavy duty cut-off wheel, I would be reluctant to have all that debris flying around in there.

I have a mechanic buddy who has a tool that heats just the nut or just the bolt. When asked how much that baby costs.........he said, you don't want to know. Maybe he'll let me borrow it if I run into this problem in the future....
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by lownslow
Just read the album notes Ripsaw.............nice job.

Of the methods listed prior, I like them all except cutting the nut. Though I have removed nuts in other applications by cutting into it just short of the threads with a dremel and a heavy duty cut-off wheel, I would be reluctant to have all that debris flying around in there.

I have a mechanic buddy who has a tool that heats just the nut or just the bolt. When asked how much that baby costs.........he said, you don't want to know. Maybe he'll let me borrow it if I run into this problem in the future....
Heat scares me. The actual loctited threads are way back in there. Loctite takes close to 400 degrees and there is a rubber seal between engine and primary and the magnets glued on the alternator rotor. However it says right on alternator rotor not to strike. I assume they are talking about rotor itself. I always make sure I have primary locked up good with locking tool. Last time when I put it back together had loaned out my large torque wrench. Tried using the low torque and then degree method by marking the compensator cover. It is a slip fit and as you tighten it slides around also. Blows that degree crap, at least for me out the window. Just torqued it 120 and hit it with inpact couple 3 times.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by AlCherry
If you haven't noticed yet, you are not alone with this problem!
Ain't that the truth , got jumped by 4 guys once and didn't get the asswhipping one stubborn comp nut gave me . Get the bigger impact man .
 
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