Inner primary
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: langley,bc,canada
Inner primary
So I finally got the inner primary off ,to change stator and shifter linkage bushing,and weld up a crack right behind a previous repair and I find the start of 5 more cracks all around the trans area and underneath starter housing,could this be cuz I was running a 24 tooth front sprocket?
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
As in around the mainshaft? Not a sprocket problem IMO...think more like excessive vibration.
When was last time you checked the bolts holding the tranny to the tranny plate or the bolts holding the tranny plate to the frame.
Was the tranny bolted securely to the inner primary? and checked to ensure no shims were needed (course this was after the motor was installed and shimmed and torqued to specs).
When was the last time the tranny was taken apart and the mainshaft race replaced and honed to match the mainshaft (though I would think that the oil seal would have failed and pushed oil out if the race and bearing were fubar
When was last time you checked the bolts holding the tranny to the tranny plate or the bolts holding the tranny plate to the frame.
Was the tranny bolted securely to the inner primary? and checked to ensure no shims were needed (course this was after the motor was installed and shimmed and torqued to specs).
When was the last time the tranny was taken apart and the mainshaft race replaced and honed to match the mainshaft (though I would think that the oil seal would have failed and pushed oil out if the race and bearing were fubar
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 254
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From: langley,bc,canada
top motor mount was busted for a long time when I bought it 2 years ago,,im checking the mainshaft bearing race though and tranny mounts,,this is my first time tearing it down,,not going back together unless its right
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,102
Likes: 51,358
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Bingo some of the later primaries where a bit cheesy and they didn't flex well , your whole drive train needs to squared and shimmed true . It will knock out a boat load of your heavy vibration too which is causing all the crap to break .
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 313
Likes: 2
From: somewhere in "The Peoples' Republic of Illinois
Comments on this problem.
There is a certain sequence to aligning the transmission/engine/primary to avoid cracking the prim. housing around the main shaft support bearing-'well'.
When you install the primary, the engine must be 'bolt tight' then with the tranny lose on the tranny plate bolt the primary to the tranny then tighten the tranny to the plate. All mating surfaces must be clean first. It will be worth the effort to dissassemble those components to check for any missalignment/frame bends, grime, road trash, etc.
Chances are the primary has been removed in the past and not installed properly. That said, some primaries were not well 'poured'/designed or if it was replaced with an aftermarket piece it may be one of the junk units I've heard of.
When you replace the mainshaft support bearing, make sure you have the right one for you application. some models had thin bearings and some were thicker. Heat the primary to 300/400 degrees for an hour and freeze the bearing overnight or with dry ice for an hour. It makes the bearing go in the 'well' easier as well as a little oil on the outer race of the bearing. Feed the bearing in straight and don't beat it in, tap it with a socket that only touches the outer race of the bearing. Support the primary bearing 'well' from the back side so you don't wind up stressing the housing while installing the bearing.
Get everything ready to install and all tools at hand when you go to do the job so you don't have to stop mid way to find your next tool, ect.
Welding the primary can be OK if the welder has the ability and the cracks aren't too bad or many. But any welding around the bearing 'well' can distort the well's 'roundness' and/or it's alignment.
Good luck!
Krutch
Prospect? I did that a long time ago! Earned my ****!
When you install the primary, the engine must be 'bolt tight' then with the tranny lose on the tranny plate bolt the primary to the tranny then tighten the tranny to the plate. All mating surfaces must be clean first. It will be worth the effort to dissassemble those components to check for any missalignment/frame bends, grime, road trash, etc.
Chances are the primary has been removed in the past and not installed properly. That said, some primaries were not well 'poured'/designed or if it was replaced with an aftermarket piece it may be one of the junk units I've heard of.
When you replace the mainshaft support bearing, make sure you have the right one for you application. some models had thin bearings and some were thicker. Heat the primary to 300/400 degrees for an hour and freeze the bearing overnight or with dry ice for an hour. It makes the bearing go in the 'well' easier as well as a little oil on the outer race of the bearing. Feed the bearing in straight and don't beat it in, tap it with a socket that only touches the outer race of the bearing. Support the primary bearing 'well' from the back side so you don't wind up stressing the housing while installing the bearing.
Get everything ready to install and all tools at hand when you go to do the job so you don't have to stop mid way to find your next tool, ect.
Welding the primary can be OK if the welder has the ability and the cracks aren't too bad or many. But any welding around the bearing 'well' can distort the well's 'roundness' and/or it's alignment.
Good luck!
Krutch
Prospect? I did that a long time ago! Earned my ****!
Last edited by Krutch; Apr 3, 2012 at 11:05 AM. Reason: Name Subtitle
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 254
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From: langley,bc,canada
Good news!! The Easter Bunny sold me a complete OEM inner and outer primary,no cracks,for 100$$ plus a complete primary beltdrive(never been used) along with a 48 tooth chrome rear sprocket for another 100$$,,,guess I'm gonna have almost a spare bike by the time I'm done.
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Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,102
Likes: 51,358
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Good news!! The Easter Bunny sold me a complete OEM inner and outer primary,no cracks,for 100$$ plus a complete primary beltdrive(never been used) along with a 48 tooth chrome rear sprocket for another 100$$,,,guess I'm gonna have almost a spare bike by the time I'm done.
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For what it's worth, you've got the inner primary off, go ahead and pull the motor and trans and check your mounts for level. All of the solid mount frames have some alignment problems, to include the EVO's and TC's.
Once the motor and trans is out, set a torpedo level crossways (left and right) on the front mount and level the bike. Check the other mounts for level. When you set the motor and trans, You can use cut up pieces of soda or beer cans for shims to make everything level. It's not going to be much. Check the motor and trans cases where they mount to the frame with a machine rule to insure that they are flat.
It is a pain in the *** to do, but it is worth it if your scoot is a keeper. The results will be fewer problems down the road with alignments when you have to dissassemble and assemble for repairs.There will be fewer broken "ears" on your inner primary trying to mount it up.
Once the motor and trans is out, set a torpedo level crossways (left and right) on the front mount and level the bike. Check the other mounts for level. When you set the motor and trans, You can use cut up pieces of soda or beer cans for shims to make everything level. It's not going to be much. Check the motor and trans cases where they mount to the frame with a machine rule to insure that they are flat.
It is a pain in the *** to do, but it is worth it if your scoot is a keeper. The results will be fewer problems down the road with alignments when you have to dissassemble and assemble for repairs.There will be fewer broken "ears" on your inner primary trying to mount it up.
Last edited by AlCherry; Apr 10, 2012 at 07:43 PM.