Dual Point Test Light
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Napa Valley
Dual Point Test Light
im posting here cuz it is a shovelhead currently,
my question is about timing a dual point manual advance timer.
according to my harley manual it describes a light off / light on situation when the points open and close. what i am getting is a bright to dim light instead.
The motor is a 47e with 74 cid barrels and dual plugged shovelheads. I am using a Harley timer and a seperate coil for each cylinder.
if I put paper between the points I am not adjusting I get the light off / light on situation. the only shared connection between the two coils is at the keyswitch. i have used an ohm meter and confirmed there is no short in the wiring.
this thing ran this setup when I found it and after putting it around a while I decided to tune it up. I replaced both coils, points, condensors, wires and plugs.
now im having issues getting it running and discovered this oddity when my way didnt work and i dug out a book that shows dual point.
So is this normal? bright / dim instead of on / off
this is with ground - hooked to battery and hot + disconnected and test light from batt + to coil any post
my question is about timing a dual point manual advance timer.
according to my harley manual it describes a light off / light on situation when the points open and close. what i am getting is a bright to dim light instead.
The motor is a 47e with 74 cid barrels and dual plugged shovelheads. I am using a Harley timer and a seperate coil for each cylinder.
if I put paper between the points I am not adjusting I get the light off / light on situation. the only shared connection between the two coils is at the keyswitch. i have used an ohm meter and confirmed there is no short in the wiring.
this thing ran this setup when I found it and after putting it around a while I decided to tune it up. I replaced both coils, points, condensors, wires and plugs.
now im having issues getting it running and discovered this oddity when my way didnt work and i dug out a book that shows dual point.
So is this normal? bright / dim instead of on / off
this is with ground - hooked to battery and hot + disconnected and test light from batt + to coil any post
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 979
Likes: 38
From: new orleans,la
Without actually seeing the bike and how it was timed, I am going to say it is the timing. Dual-point pans are not the easiest to time. Only the front cylinder points are set to .022" and left as .022". The rear can be set to .022" as a starting point but will likely end up at a different setting.
After the front points gap is set, the spark advance is adjusted with the front cylinder timing mark in position when the front cylinder is under compression (I use a static light hooked between battery positive post and the front points' terminal [a second wire is run from the negative post and the timer base] that goes out when the points break, indicating full advance and set the breaker to that exact moment).
Once the spark advance is set, bring up the rear cylinder timing mark into position when the rear cylinder in under compression. Next, with the timer fully advanced, set the rear points using the points' adjustment screw so that they just break (the static light, hooked up to the rear points' terminal, goes out). After the points are set and if you want, see what the rear point gap is. You will find it to be anything from .019" and .023".
The fact that it runs fairly well once running is a good indication there is nothing wrong with the coils.
Also, don't discount the condensors, a weak condensor will make for hard starting & dual point breakers make condensor changing a bear (usually requiring the points & timing to be reset). Indication of a weak or too hot a condensor is point transference.
After the front points gap is set, the spark advance is adjusted with the front cylinder timing mark in position when the front cylinder is under compression (I use a static light hooked between battery positive post and the front points' terminal [a second wire is run from the negative post and the timer base] that goes out when the points break, indicating full advance and set the breaker to that exact moment).
Once the spark advance is set, bring up the rear cylinder timing mark into position when the rear cylinder in under compression. Next, with the timer fully advanced, set the rear points using the points' adjustment screw so that they just break (the static light, hooked up to the rear points' terminal, goes out). After the points are set and if you want, see what the rear point gap is. You will find it to be anything from .019" and .023".
The fact that it runs fairly well once running is a good indication there is nothing wrong with the coils.
Also, don't discount the condensors, a weak condensor will make for hard starting & dual point breakers make condensor changing a bear (usually requiring the points & timing to be reset). Indication of a weak or too hot a condensor is point transference.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,115
Likes: 51,404
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
When I've used test lights I've had the same thing happen gets dim but never goes out , try slipping a bit of paper between the opposing points and see if it goes completely out .
Also try these guys shovels and older only .
http://shovelhead.us/forum/index.php
Also try these guys shovels and older only .
http://shovelhead.us/forum/index.php
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