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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 04:23 PM
  #11  
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hey berndog... I got a diaphragm clutch set, used, couple nuts missing...
do you have any installation instruction/tips?
 
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 04:24 PM
  #12  
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SORRY... I meant TwiZted!!!!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by V_twins
hey berndog... I got a diaphragm clutch set, used, couple nuts missing...
do you have any installation instruction/tips?
Which one you got ?, picture would go a long way to telling you right . here's a basic one size fits all sheet if you don't have the big full hub and all units this type set up and adjust the same . Some have a bit thicker plate & no stand offs is about the only difference .

 
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #14  
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This is the one I got:



I also have the long rollers, ramjet plastic retainer disc and aluminum pressure plate
 
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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That's the Sifton unit same as I'm running , be warned the fingers on that hub will develop grooves from the clutch plates fairly quick they are soft as hell only issue I see with that system so far . Adjusts the same as the info I posted earlier . The black steel retainer & the stock adjuster nuts aren't used , get some 5/16-24 lock nuts not the nylon kind you want the auto all steel ones instead .
 
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:19 PM
  #16  
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the black steel retainer came in the box... maybe they made a mistake
A couple questions... should I use the long rollers and ramjet I already have?
also... I am using 2 discs less in my clutch (1 friction and 1 steel less)
Foind that set up in an old Easyrides or some 70s magazine.
Actually it works pretty fine, no drags or anything (recommended for light bikes, no dressers).. do I need to put the 2 discs back?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 10:37 PM
  #17  
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The retainer is generic with the hub so just toss it in the extra's box , do use the Ramjett and you'll need all the plates to make the diaphragm system work right . Running a wet clutch & no belt you can use the the long rollers as long as the cluctch shell spins freely on the hub if it's tight don't . Belt system I suggest the OEM caged bearings or you'll be in lubing the long ones every 1000 miles or so and they are a nightmare when the go out if you don't catch them fast they take out the clutch basket and the hub too .
 
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #18  
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I've wresled with the clutch and tranny output seal for 30+ years on my 1980 FXWG. Tried oversize bearings; one piece long bearings; the Tamer; 5 finger(a joke cause you can never get all the nuts to touch)and as was mentioned the plates quickly wear groves in the studs; and every other wizard trick to no long lasting results. I just lived with it and fixed often as needed. Then about 6 years ago found the Pro Clutch and haven't touched it sense. What a beauty it is. This summer I built a five speed for the 4 speed frame so will be taking care of the tranny leak this winter. My only worry now is there goes all my cain lube(frome the leaky tranny). Might have accellerated wear of chain and sprockets now
 
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