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So I bought I new 5 finger clutch hub,and the long roller bearings,and the only clutch retainer I can find is for a 3 finger,,will this still work on my 5?
From what I understand is that you can only use 2 snap rings with it, but it works. Make sure to use snap rings and not C-clips. You would think someone would make a retainer for a fiver.
Use all the clips just pick the next best fitting stud on one side is all . You want them all on there trust me . And yes the RamJett/nylon retainer if you do it right helps a lot with shovel clutch ignorance , add the alum. pressure plate is another big plus too .
J&P sells the extra snap rings for those I suggest you buy a bag of 10 extra , they tend to stretch out of shape after one or two removal's and you will be doing that regular if you have a belt drive . Those long hub bearing need lubed fairly regular or they will trash the hub when they go , I've had to change a few for people who didn't my own included .
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Sep 24, 2012 at 09:38 PM.
actually... I think I used all athe retaining rings or at least 3... 2 fit right.. the others I had to mill down the plastic disc just enough to fit the ring
If you run the sealed oil bath the long ones will work fine as long as there's a smidge of play in the bearings , if they go in tight and the hub won't spin freely they will give you trouble eventually . Belt drives the same deal with fit but you need to pull and lube them about the same time you do oil changes . Think about it they push all the lube out and end up running dry fairly quick . I went back to the caged set up even on my big horsepower rigs with belt drives .
The simplest and has proven to be the best all round solution for shovel clutches is the nylon retainer setup right , OEM bearing setup , a new set of clean & straight clutch plates ( check the steels for hot spots = warped = replace it ) and the aluminium pressure plate , the old steel one are always warped or bent and the spot welds chew up the outer plate . A new spring kit is cheap too the old ones loose tension very erratically and the pressure plate won't pull evenly , if you stand them all up they will be all different heights . Adjustment is 4 or 5 threads showing in the studs and adjust as needed to get the plate to move in & out evenly all the way round , don't worry about the nuts on the stud's being in or out more than others . Providing your cable is good and lubed properly and the throw out bearing & pushrod is ok this will give a damn near bullet proof clutch in a shovel even bigger HP bikes .
I've danced with every gadget and " fix " under the sun and this is what works best & simplest without dropping big $$$$$$ on a high end clutch pack and even those have issues to work out .
I'm running the Sifton diagram clutch in my 93" right now and so far it's sweet , hasn't slipped or played the old grabby game yet and it's a 2 finger pull and hooks up solid . Only down side is the hub they send with the kit has cheap studs and they groove fast . Shelf that and get a good 5 finger if you do go this route
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Sep 25, 2012 at 02:02 PM.
So I think I will stick with the stock caged bearings then,sounds lika a PITA to grease those bearings every oil change,so I have new 5 finger hub,clutch,and retainer,guess I'll go get springs and aluminum plate, before I do install,and refasten ring gear to basket,before I break my freakin ankle,,primary belt drive is workin real well,just need to change shift linkage and tune up this clutch.
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