72 FLH Trans
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From: Hiawassee, GA
72 FLH Trans
I've been reading back thought the old threads, to find the answers to my questions, I found it and didn't book mark it so I need to ask.
I've established that keeping the four speed is the right thing to do.
To go to a close ratio gears is the right thing to do.
Change the trans and rear wheel gears is the right thing to do.
The question what mfg to use for the close ratio trans gears?
The number of teeth for the front and rear spockets?
Also what's the best chain to use?
Thanks
john1dup
(John)
I've established that keeping the four speed is the right thing to do.
To go to a close ratio gears is the right thing to do.
Change the trans and rear wheel gears is the right thing to do.
The question what mfg to use for the close ratio trans gears?
The number of teeth for the front and rear spockets?
Also what's the best chain to use?
Thanks
john1dup
(John)
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,131
Likes: 51,461
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Andrews makes the close ratio gears sets for it and Mid USA had an in house brand just as good but about 1/2 the price . Even with the Andrews they can be had for around $300 or so .
Sprockets , depends on the bike You running a full boat FLH or a stripped down leaner bike ? And how much highway running you do ?
When mine was stock I ran 23 tranny and 47 or 48 rear , which ever I could find . That gave me a decent cruising ride about 65 to 75 without your hands going numb on the bars . Great midwest or flat land gearing .
Bigger dressed out bike or bigger riders go a 22 front & 47 or 48 rear , gives you a little better pull off the line when loaded up or running hills like Colorado .
Chains don't cheap out on , after eating a couple Diamond chains a year and having the sloppy bastards eat a few primary cover's & starters I went the high end Tsubaki Oring chains and chain problems stopped . Install run it a few hundred and you'll adjust it 2 maybe 3 times and they settle down and quit stretching , I've gotten 20,000 miles outa them with proper care .
Chain tech has come a long way the last 15 years with all the high end sport bikes , I'd hit one of their shops and ask around a bit , something as good or better has bound to have come out . I went rear belt on mine 15 yrs ago so ...............
Sprockets , depends on the bike You running a full boat FLH or a stripped down leaner bike ? And how much highway running you do ?
When mine was stock I ran 23 tranny and 47 or 48 rear , which ever I could find . That gave me a decent cruising ride about 65 to 75 without your hands going numb on the bars . Great midwest or flat land gearing .
Bigger dressed out bike or bigger riders go a 22 front & 47 or 48 rear , gives you a little better pull off the line when loaded up or running hills like Colorado .
Chains don't cheap out on , after eating a couple Diamond chains a year and having the sloppy bastards eat a few primary cover's & starters I went the high end Tsubaki Oring chains and chain problems stopped . Install run it a few hundred and you'll adjust it 2 maybe 3 times and they settle down and quit stretching , I've gotten 20,000 miles outa them with proper care .
Chain tech has come a long way the last 15 years with all the high end sport bikes , I'd hit one of their shops and ask around a bit , something as good or better has bound to have come out . I went rear belt on mine 15 yrs ago so ...............
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Dec 7, 2012 at 07:29 PM.
Once you get the zoom gears in the tranny, like Twisted says, 47 or 48 on the rear, 23 on the front. You can also go 46 on the rear, 23 front. Slow on the low end, but great RPM at 70. It'll get rid of the handlebar buzz. It'll get you just above lugging.
If you want to kill them stop light to stop light, 23/51. Rip you arms off excelleration, max rpm in the 1/8th, 19/51.
If you want to kill them stop light to stop light, 23/51. Rip you arms off excelleration, max rpm in the 1/8th, 19/51.
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