shovelhead noob here

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Mar 23, 2013 | 01:09 AM

#11

soft 02

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From: TOAK western branch

Looks like a nice project you got and not half as bad as I was thinking before I saw the picks. Just my opinion but as far as the wiring goes id pick up a few rolls of wire and some shrink and really spend some time making my own harness. Ive never found one that was just how I would run it. Just me. Have fun and post pics along the way

Mar 23, 2013 | 01:13 AM

#12

soft 02

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From: TOAK western branch

Oh and like to see some pics of the 51 Farmall Cub too. I work on old tractors for a livin.

Mar 23, 2013 | 01:44 AM

#13

TwiZted Biker

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From: Niles Canyon Ca.

Quote:

Originally Posted by built4com4t

thanks for the welcome guys. You're right about ugly, I've never seen an uglier bike naked like this. The plan is to cover all the naughty bits back up, put it essentially back to stock, bags and all, without spending an arm and a leg and ride the thing.

I'm told the motor has about 9k on a rebuild which included new S&S heads and super B carb. A friend who runs a local, well respected independent shop will put the motor and trans back together for me at a reasonable cost. The rest I can do as budget allows having done several restorations/customs ...brits, sportsters, buell etc. Here's one in my sig I finished and have been showing: http://legacymotorsport.com/motorcyc...-the-psyclone/

if that doesn't work search psyclone frederick

this FLT monster came with a lace front rim which I'll put up for sale (or swap for a set of stock length shocks) and gangster whitewalls. Picked up a stock cast for the front and tapped the hub opposite for the second rotor.

Right now I need the correct shocks, figure out a chain guard, find a pillion that'll go with the le pera solo it came with and decide which way to do the wiring...analog old school or join the digital age via an Ultima harness.

I have a series of pix I'll try to post next so you can see where I'm at.

thanks again for the welcome.

I don't remember if that was the one with the totally enclosed chain or not
but look around for an FXR chain guard , best bet for an easy match without the grinder .

I remember right those are either 13" or 13-1/2" shocks and you can run later model stock air shocks , either way I suggest you update to later or decent aftermarket shocks the stock ones sucked within 6 months of leaving the showroom and you'll not find a decent set of OEM used .

Wiring harness , here's a cheap trick get the book and find the correct diagram then got to Kinko's or use the company copier to make bigger blow ups ( several of them ) then sit down with white out and just do away with all the extra stuff , you'd be surprised how basic it can get quick and keep the important stuff . I don't dick around with stock harnesses on the old bikes anymore unless the are bone stock , 90% of the time I make my own . What I've been out in the garage doing the last 4 hours after 31 years I'm finally putting turn signals on mine .

Mar 23, 2013 | 02:40 AM

#14

built4com4t

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From: san jose

Quote:

Originally Posted by soft 02

Oh and like to see some pics of the 51 Farmall Cub too. I work on old tractors for a livin.

hope this is legal... it _is_ old iron

Last edited by built4com4t; Jul 30, 2013 at 04:04 PM.

Mar 23, 2013 | 02:51 AM

#15

built4com4t

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From: san jose

Quote:

Originally Posted by panz4ever

Good pics. Looks like a great project. You don't say who your local Indie is but Roger at RE Engineering has built the lower ends on two pans and one shovel for me.

thanks! looking forward to it...nice that all the pieces are here, just a darn lot of them. and never been on a big twin in my life, so it should be interesting when finished. My guy is Bruce at Slabsides in Campbell.

Mar 23, 2013 | 03:11 AM

#16

built4com4t

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From: san jose

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker

I don't remember if that was the one with the totally enclosed chain or not but look around for an FXR chain guard , best bet for an easy match without the grinder .

I remember right those are either 13" or 13-1/2" shocks and you can run later model stock air shocks , either way I suggest you update to later or decent aftermarket shocks the stock ones sucked within 6 months of leaving the showroom and you'll not find a decent set of OEM used .

Wiring harness , here's a cheap trick get the book and find the correct diagram then got to Kinko's or use the company copier to make bigger blow ups ( several of them ) then sit down with white out and just do away with all the extra stuff , you'd be surprised how basic it can get quick and keep the important stuff . I don't dick around with stock harnesses on the old bikes anymore unless the are bone stock , 90% of the time I make my own . What I've been out in the garage doing the last 4 hours after 31 years I'm finally putting turn signals on mine .

yes, original was the enclosed...long gone as evidenced by the coating of chain lube the entire left rear of the bike. thanks for the fxr guard tip.
does anybody recognize that tank? the left "filler" apparently was a gas gauge? but it's plugged up with a dummy cap.

i agree about stock harley shocks. any recommendations on a mfg? or are they all about the same... progressives are $300

and great idea on the harness, i'll take a hard look at the wiring diagram. i did pick up both TFMs and can scan it out. i've done it before just not on a bike with so many lights and gauges :-)

Mar 23, 2013 | 08:03 AM

#17

soft 02

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From: TOAK western branch

Quote:

Originally Posted by built4com4t

hope this is legal... it _is_ old iron

Cool stuff. Did a 1945 John Deere B model a number of years ago for a customer. Was a lot of fun. Get to watch it in parades every now and then.

Mar 23, 2013 | 08:39 AM

#18

TwiZted Biker

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From: Niles Canyon Ca.

Quote:

Originally Posted by built4com4t

Do some digging around on craigs list or a few of the local shops down your way , you can get late model pull off part guys have left after their chrome binge's cheap I see stock air shocks for $50 all the time .

Chain guard you'll just have to try and match something up to the tabs on the swing arm , I'd think anything FLT may work as they didn't change much over the years frame & swingarm wise .