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Hi!

Let's see if you can help me ...

Where and for how much, can I find the foot clutch/hand shift kit for the Shovel FLH?
i mean the kit that bolts to the front leg of the frame and not to the left side of the fuel tank.

Thank's everyone!


Like this:http://images.theroadking.multiply.c...AmRQrfu2qmxvkQ

 

Check sites like Ebay or true shovelhead sites.J&p cycles antique catalog use to carry the frame mount setup,check to see if still available.You will also need the foot clutch setup depending on the one you want,a true suicide setup or a rocker clutch setup.You will need correct tranny clutch rod and possibly the spacer block for a rocker style foot clutch setup.All of this will cost you.Try going used,someone may have a complete setup you are looking for.This time of yr has many swap meets happening.

 

The only manufacturer that I know of is V-Twin, no matter who you buy it from. I don't know about the quality of the hand shift part, but the rocker clutch pedal assembly on the one I bought was junk. I had welds break and the pedal come off while mI was toolin' down the road. I'd search e-Bay and buy a ratty original before I'd get the re-pop version. If you have to go re-pop, tear it apart and redo the weld that holds the pedal assembly to the shaft.

 

Does anyone have to OEM or aftermarket parts numbers?

 

Roadking,I think what you are referring to is the "mousetrap" that HD called the clutch booster. These were offered from 52 to 66? 67? Then HD went to what I have always known as the mousetrap eliminator and kept that set up to E79? To use the mousetrap you must also switch to the earlier shifter cover that was used from 52 to E79.

There are a bunch of part numbers you need to make the change. If you don't have the old manual or access to one, shoot me a pm w/ an address. I can photcopy the appropriate pages with the parts numbers and diagrams from the parts book.

 

support brkt----33361-66,shift lever-----33676-66,shifterball----33745-31,pivot shaft---33776-66,shift lever guide----33789-66,shift lever spring----33875-66a,shift rod end---33870-51,shift lever shoulder bolt----33875-66,shoulder bolt rod end---33879-36,ubolt brkt---38460-52,clevis pin----42269-30.All OEM p/ns Release trans lever 37051-36,rocker clutch parts. pedal---36811-65,brkt--36842-41,cover---36830-36,spring---36880-36.spacer block if needed----36869-70.again all OEM p/ns.It would be cheaper to buy these all used.

 

Hi Roadking
Sorry this reply is very late, but I've only just signed up!
I converted my 1974 FLH Police Special back to the original factory hand-shift set-up last year, with no advice available on how to do it, so you might gain from my mistakes.
I used a mixture of the V-Twin kit (J&P Cycles part 600-024) and old used OEM parts. Incidentally, V-Twin actually made the Shovelhead hand-shift parts for HD, so shouldn't really be thought of as reproductions.
If you intend to run a stock ratchet-top tranny, you'll need a smooth lever gate as supplied by V-Twin 601-818, but I don't like the ratchet top (too many parts to go wrong...) so got a good OEM 1965 hand shift top from eBay, which needs a notched 1-N-2-3-4 shifter lever gate. Most 4-speed Knuckle or Pan hand-shift tranny lids will fit straight on, but note that your ratchet-style cast shifter drum will not fit into the hand-shift tranny top - you'll need the steel hand-shift drum from the older models. Later hand-shift tranny tops (like my 1965) have a hole threaded for a neutral switch, but it is possible to tap a thread into an older top - I've done that in the past as well. If you want a neutral switch, you'll need the ratchet-tops shifter gear, which has a little cam lobe to actuate the switch.
One part I wouldn't buy from V-Twin is their chrome hand-shift lever - it doesn't even come close to clearing stock 5-gallon tanks, and must be for the smaller optional 3 gallon ones. Good OEM levers often come up, so look for part 33676-66, which has really beautiful, subtle curves which are almost impossible to recreate.
To complete the tranny top, you'll need a new release arm, part 37052-65 (J&P's 6200245).
The rocker clutch has to be a late model, incorporating a stud on the pedal to retain rod lever 36816-65A, otherwise it's identical to earlier rocker clutches. If you have a stock alloy primary cover from the post-alternator era, you'll need to space the rocker clutch out from the frame using alloy spacer block 36869-70 - this is a fairly scarce OEM part, but J&P's V-Twin item 630-279 is only around $23.
Keep a good stock of spare shift lever springs (33865-65) and clutch friction discs ((36899-41).
For a clutch rod I used J&P's 630-461 (36918-65) and rod end 36916-52. I used a straight hand-shift rod with threaded ends, with a single-eye rod end for the tranny, and a clevis on the shift-lever end to eliminate linkage slop.
Because the rocker clutch assembly has been spaced further out, the front left footboard bracket will also need spaced using a combination of a thick washer and a short footboard stud (50657-70A, V-Twin 27-0636) usually found on the right hand footboard where it comes out of the rear master cylinder, and the stock jiffy stand will need a lowering wedge between the jiffy bracket and the rocker clutch bracket, V-Twin 31-0215, otherwise the bike will sit too upright for safety when parked due to the stand being further out from the machine's centerline.
If you need any more advice or information, like photos, HD part numbers and assembly drawings, original handbook Shovel hand-shift or rocker clutch adjustment instructions, just email me at allamo@btopenworld.com
Regards and good luck!
Al

 

Thanks for the help!