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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 08:42 PM
  #11  
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i wouldnt take it apart just yet-- 125/90 it will still run and run good -- check the timing like said-- mufflers or baffles in a 80" 68 main jet -- open pipes 70 main jet

how do the plugs look? clean? kinda gray/white? (unleaded fuel) -- best plugs i found are the autolite XS-65 gap to .040

gas cap vent -- see if it runs better with the cap off -- whats the inside of the pipes look like? black?? really black and sooty? both? just the rear?

does it smoke? blow a puff when you revv it?

and andrews cam if its like a "J" "A" small cams -- the jet is stock like --

does it start easy?? idle? or sound labored? pop ? spit?

i had one the dude put his own ignition in and turned it in retarts -- super slug -- i turned the breaker plate the opposit way and it cam to life -- before that it was a real dog -- nooooooo power --
 
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 10:06 PM
  #12  
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Default Did a leak down test

So did a leak down test & had air coming out the intake & exhaust on the rear cylinder. I did it four time just because I couldn't believe it was coming out both. So I guess it's looking like a head job.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 06:05 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by American Made
So did a leak down test & had air coming out the intake & exhaust on the rear cylinder. I did it four time just because I couldn't believe it was coming out both. So I guess it's looking like a head job.
i have seen valve guides soo worn that the two valves end up hitting each other - ( look at the two valves for bites ) and like i said you need to dissassemble and see what it needs to correct the issue
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 08:02 AM
  #14  
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Check and see if you have adjustable push rods. These have been known to become mis-adjusted on their own. You'll be checking for a locking nut that may have backed off and is allowing the push rod to contract / expand under vibrating running condition. This adjustment being wrong could account for both valves being open at the same time.

If you can borrow or rent a tiny inspection camera you could go in through the spark plug hole and see how carboned up things are. Maybe it's a speck of carbon leaving a valve open.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 08:06 AM
  #15  
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Default Push rods

The push rods are adjustable, & I took them completely out the 4th time I did the test to make sure they weren't the problem. The scope is a good idea, we have one at work for looking in walls, it will even take pics & video.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 11:33 AM
  #16  
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 01:29 PM
  #17  
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More pipes that dont work correctly-- long front short rear-- have fun tuning that -- those fish tails interfere with the exhaust flow.. is that 2" pipes??? lol even on a 100" i and no one i know would run more than 1 3/4
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 03:24 PM
  #18  
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When you did the leak down you did have it at top dead center on the compression stroke?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 46u
When you did the leak down you did have it at top dead center on the compression stroke?
I did. That why I did it 4 times, it seemed odd to have it coming out both.
Since I'm pulling the heads tonight and possibly looking at a valve job I was considering putting a set of S&S heads on. Anyone have an opinion on them?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 04:47 PM
  #20  
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READ--->>> http://www.bikernet.com/pages/Shovel..._Not_Dead.aspx --
 
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