what is allowable knowing i may not keep this '80 FLT
forever and sincerely doubt it'll get any serious miles
put on it.

rear rod is rock solid, tight and smooth, no play at all...
however i can wiggle the front rod side to side maybe
1/32" left/right _total_...but nothing when trying to twist.

this is measured when the front rod is bottom dead
center, measuring from the side of the wrist pin end
of the rod against the top deck of the main case.

s&s heads bead blasted, cherry valves and springs
refitted, new guides, s&s pistons 30 over fitted to
correct 80" cylinders, new rings. engine is bolted
up to the trans and mounted in the frame, top end
ready to go back on.

here's where i'm at:

i consider this basket (that dropped in my lap for next to
nothing) a stepping stone to an earlier model i would restore
as a keeper, so i have no emotional ties to this one...
just put it back together, clean it up, make it more than
presentable/ridable with new tires, wiring harness, paint
and powdercoat, ride it to get the feel for a big twin and
pass it along.

thanks!

 

i have seen guys put a front rod twist 1/4 inch back together

side to side is nothing - its in the twist of the rod that matters and you said its almost nothing -- forget it put it back together-- with the right gaskets and rubber valve seals and drive the hell out of it - i am doing mine as well 1981 FLT - mine has the original pistons in it so i am replacing them because the ring package for OEM pistons is only cast top ring or a chrome top ring - after market cast pistons have EVO rings in Moly and last 4 times what the original rings do and i am leaving it STD bore -- jz

 

What John said , front rod is all about twist if it doesn't have any go for it and again as he said use the good top dollar metal/silicon gaskets not the old school paper ones .

Nice score by the way wish something like that would drop in my lap ........

 

all that and ya missed checking the wrist pin bushings --

 

thanks for the replies..yep, wrist pins are nice and tight

 

With the crank pin in approx. the 5 o'clock position, and the rod rollers/cage assembly as void of oil as you can, gently/firmly grab the male rod and feel for ANY up/down.
If there is any whatsoever, it needs to be refitted.
When that is performed here we also balance the wheels to the dedicated gram weights of the reciprocating assembly and the rotating assembly per S&S worksheet formula, using S&S Master Balance Tooling.
Have NEVER witnessed an OEM flywheel set that was balanced correctly, and we've built/re-built over 400 units since our business began almost 30 years ago.
Scott

 

that makes sense...great advice, thanks.

 

Your right about that , amazing how far out I've found some bone stock shovel wheel sets to be .

 

i hope no one thinks i am flaming this post -- but - their is always a but

S&S balance procedure is based on the left and right flywheel being the same weight as the wheels sets from S&S are and always have been the same weight, size and thickness, and that Factor is 60% - its what S&S came up with for the stuff they sell -- Now having said that i have never found a set from S&S that has been correct from them NEW with the equiptment they sell for flywheels, using the 60 percent number ---

having had the operatunity over the many years to fix own and go after things like balance, looking for it in stock and high RPM power plants you learn things < and it cost you money when you go looking to improve things

AS i know it and it is in my shop with my tools ( NOT ANYONE ELSES TOOLS OR EQUIPTMENT ) i have found 57 percent is a percentage factor, that was used by harley at the factory back in the day, on the older motors THAT did not have super hi ways like we have today and were driven on local roads, 50 MPH was fast back in the day street driving with drum brakes - and the 57 percent was correct for low speed lumbering the local roads

i am not looking to make a thing over this but S&S is not and has never been the end all answer in what works and what dont < yes they were out front and i will tip my hat to george smith he did real good -- johnjzjz

 

Don't care for their rod sets at all , have a bucket with 1/2 dozen cores where the crank pins started cratering out and knocked out the small rod end on all of them . I do use their balance tools but I've played with the % factor from 50 to 65% over the years in different motor configurations , this coming from several old school reputable builders Truett & Osborn being one , I use their wheels and they are raw out of the box you have to balance before use .