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The Dyno RoomA special room dedicated for Dyno tuning products, troubleshooting and results. All Gearheads and Dyno Operators are welcome here as well as the guys that are new to tuning. Please see the special rules for this section before posting.
I have a new FXDL-S on which I just installed a Supertrapp supermeg pipe. Dynojet sent me a tune "110 Stock Improved" which works, but doesn't feel like it's particularly good, and I haven't gotten particularly good auto tune (basic) results with. Wondering if I'd be better off using the stock tune and auto tuning that, or will it be too lean to start out with making it not worth trying?
I guess I'm concerned that the canned tune from Dynojet may or may not take the SE255 cams that come stock on the SE110 motor into consideration.
Any thoughts or recommendations? Unfortunately I didn't get this PV from FuelMoto so I can't go there for a tune, and I don't see anything else out there that I'm comfortable trying.
Have you talked to Jamie? He may still be of assistance and get you a library calibration anyway.
You can also tune the bike yourself with the PV.
Honestly, I wouldn't ask. He is in business and I made the mistake of not researching before buying, so I don't want to ask him for something for free that is one of the benefits of buying from him.
I'm going to a dyno tuner anyway, I just wanted something to use in the mean time.
And yes, I'm familiar with auto tune. One of my questions was whether it better to tune the factory tune or use the canned Dynojet map.
I'd start with your original and go from there. You can of course compare them side-by-side and see what they did to 'improve' it. If you're auto tuning with the NB O2 sensors you're only gonna get a small part of the map tuned anyway. Compare the AFR tables between the two maps to see what they did. Usually they'll lower it a bit and of course the VEs will be different. If you're worried about a lean OE tune, just change the AFR table to be something like 14.2 in the cruise range max and have it taper off from there around that area. That should be more than enough to get you by until you get it dyno tuned. Of course, this is just my .02 FWIW.
I'd start with your original and go from there. You can of course compare them side-by-side and see what they did to 'improve' it. If you're auto tuning with the NB O2 sensors you're only gonna get a small part of the map tuned anyway. Compare the AFR tables between the two maps to see what they did. Usually they'll lower it a bit and of course the VEs will be different. If you're worried about a lean OE tune, just change the AFR table to be something like 14.2 in the cruise range max and have it taper off from there around that area. That should be more than enough to get you by until you get it dyno tuned. Of course, this is just my .02 FWIW.
Thanks. Yes, narrow band sensors.
Question, as I'm not as knowledgeable on the details, but you say change to 14.2. Have a look at the below table - this is the stock tune:
So your recommendation is to lower the 14.4 in this range to 14.2?
On this table:
Sorry if I'm not understanding this fully, I'm new to getting into this detail.
The stock narrow band sensors will pretty much do nothing to auto tune your bike. You really need wideband sensors for that.
I would flash the stock map back onto the bike, then take that map and just a placeholder until you have your guy do the dyno tune, change the fuel AFR (red, orange, and light orange 14.6 to 14.3) to 13.5 (and 13.8 in cruise range). I wouldn't touch anything else right now if you don't know what it does.
This way you know the bike (at the very least) isn't running lean.
The stock narrow band sensors will pretty much do nothing to auto tune your bike. You really need wideband sensors for that.
I would flash the stock map back onto the bike, then take that map and just a placeholder until you have your guy do the dyno tune, change the fuel AFR (red, orange, and light orange 14.6 to 14.3) to 13.5 (and 13.8 in cruise range). I wouldn't touch anything else right now if you don't know what it does.
This way you know the bike (at the very least) isn't running lean.
I appreciate the reply. As you hit the nail on the head with the "if you don't know what it does" - Just to be 100% clear, you suggest I change any value of 14.6 to 14.3 to 13.5, and to 13.8 in the 2500-3500 rpm range?
Again, thanks. I didn't do much riding this weekend as I wasn't comfortable being unclear on it. And that was painful.
I appreciate the reply. As you hit the nail on the head with the "if you don't know what it does" - Just to be 100% clear, you suggest I change any value of 14.6 to 14.3 to 13.5, and to 13.8 in the 2500-3500 rpm range?
Again, thanks. I didn't do much riding this weekend as I wasn't comfortable being unclear on it. And that was painful.
Using the stock tune (which I'm assuming is this pic here):
Change cells displayed 13.8 to to 13.2.
Change the cells that display 14.6 to 13.8 (this is primarily your cruise range).
Change the cells that display 14.5 to 13.5.
Change the cells that display 14.4 to 13.2
Change the cells that display 14.0 to 13.3
Change 14.1 to 13.2
I hope I explained what I'm trying to say good enough... post a pic when you're done if you can to double check it. May not be as good as a dyno but I'm pretty sure it will be a lot better and at the very least won't be lean.
Using the stock tune (which I'm assuming is this pic here):
Change cells displayed 13.8 to to 13.2.
Change the cells that display 14.6 to 13.8 (this is primarily your cruise range).
Change the cells that display 14.5 to 13.5.
Change the cells that display 14.4 to 13.2
Change the cells that display 14.0 to 13.3
Change 14.1 to 13.2
I hope I explained what I'm trying to say good enough... post a pic when you're done if you can to double check it. May not be as good as a dyno but I'm pretty sure it will be a lot better and at the very least won't be lean.
Perfect! Thank you Sir. Completely understood. Will do as soon as I get home.
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Starting tune for a 110
