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Replacing Final Drive Belt - Do I Need to Remove the Rear Wheel?
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The only reason is Dealer cost. I run a Falcon SPC and have not had an issue but there were complaints on bikes with narrower (than my 1.5") width.
Gates still makes the OEM belts (unless something changed,) and their carbon fiber 'Polysteel' is supposed to be even stronger (and cheaper if you go aftermarket.) That's how I'll go next time (if this one ever breaks.)
If you're concerned about doing the rear wheel alignment pick up a Motion Pro #08-0368 alignment tool. It makes the job quick and accurate. Sure, you could make an alignment tool out of some bent wire but who doesn't like nice tools?
If you don't have a belt tension gauge get a Motion Pro #08-0350 gauge so you can properly set belt tension.
You can find both of those on eBay inexpensively...
+1 on this...
I just used both of these exact tools this past week. They are both things that you could replace with a tape measure, but they're inexpensive and pretty fool proof. I set the pointer on the alignment tool against my axle before removing or loosening anything, figuring that would be a good starting point for reassembly. As it turned out, I didn't really have to readjust anything. I just lined up both sides to the original pointer location and both alignment and belt tension checked out. Super simple!
I went with the OEM belt. I didn't realize until after I paid though that he didn't have one in stock and he had to order it...so I won't actually have it until Thursday, which is fine, I can't get too far until my alignment tool gets here anyway.
I used a car jack under the tire when re-installing the axle for belt replacement. I've had to remove the rear tire and axle twice, as well as, both primaries for repairs. As others have said, read the manual and take your time. I did this and had zero experience before doing this...and I'm still living to talk about it.
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