When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just got back from 500 mile ride and cleaning the bike. Noticed right side front caliber with a very small amount of brake fluid on the bottom. Something that needs to be addressed ASAP. Aside from replacing the caliber is there an alternative? Has anyone done the film negative trick with brake calibers? Chances are it's dirt stuck in an O-ring. If rebuild is an option, is the kit available at the dealer or is it aftermarket? Thanks guys!
Considering the bike is almost 15 years old, Im saying the seals have dried up and/or degraded. You can reseal the calipers for about $8.00 per kit (last I remember) and a pint of brake fluid and some brake clean and denatured alcohol. Maybe another $20 for a master cyl kit and you could actually change from DOT 5 to DOT 4. Along with age you may want to consider new rubber hoses too. Its a little labor, but a lot cheaper than new calipers.
Bring this to the top. Got the seal kits. How's the correct way to do this job? Open the bleeders and drain the brake fluid? Grab the piston and just pull it out? Dig out the seals with a pick? Wipe new seals with brake fluid and install? Thanks Guys!
Bring this to the top. Got the seal kits. How's the correct way to do this job? Open the bleeders and drain the brake fluid? Grab the piston and just pull it out? Dig out the seals with a pick? Wipe new seals with brake fluid and install? Thanks Guys!
You're going to be stripping and servicing the calipers? Get yourself a factory service manual, where you will find most of what you need to know and a good deal more besides.
That thread was interesting reading. OP lubricated caliber parts with silicone grease and was criticized (nicely). Majority of posters insisted brake fluid should be the only lubricant because of possible contamination. The directions for the kit say brake fluid will give a soft lever and a specific grease is required. All this seems to indicate that DOT 5 fluid is a different animal than the DOT 3 that we're all familiar with.
That thread was interesting reading. OP lubricated caliber parts with silicone grease and was criticized (nicely). Majority of posters insisted brake fluid should be the only lubricant because of possible contamination. The directions for the kit say brake fluid will give a soft lever and a specific grease is required.
Theres a reason the directions say not to use brake fluid on the seals, but here on the net someone starts a trend saying that BF is the only thing to use and almost everyone believes it to be gospel. The readon you dont use BF as an oring lube is now you created a path for the same fluid to seep by, which can creste a spongy lever at least. Not to mention all the dirt that will stick to the area and hang up pistons. Gee how many threads have their been on sticking pistons!
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.