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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I hated the stock location of the ignition switch on my 14 Low Rider. My bike runs a little hot so I was looking for a cooling solution. I ordered a Wards cooling fan but because of the switch mounting, there was no way to install the Ward fans on the bike. Since the bike had to go to Harley for the ignition switch replacement recall I decided to fabricate a relocation bracket while the bike was there. By no means am I an accomplished metal worker nor mechanic but I decided to come up with a solution. I cut out a small mounting bracket from some scrap aluminum for the switch using a Dremel and drilled the required mounting holes. Since my bike does not have ABS, I decided to mount it directly under the battery box using the mounting screw for the box and the two mounting holes for the ABS control box located on the frame that are covered by two plastic plugs. I had to extend the two ignition switch wires to reach the new location. Simple job of cutting and soldering longer wires. Once all that was done I moved on to the fan installation. I had to remove the tank to gain access to the top engine mount bracket to facilitate it's removal and replacement . I installed a stock 2014 Street Bob engine/horn bracket part # 16328-04A ($15.01), Chrome Horn Bracket # 69120-91 ($25.00), a Loud Side Mount Horn Kit # 69060-90H ($36.00), Horn Rubber Mount # 69123-92A ($4.51), Acorn Lock Nut # 7549A ($3.30), and chose a Drag Chrome Round Horn Cover instead of the standard Cow Bell. I removed the front horn and extended the wires to reach the new Loud Horn. The whole process took me about 6 hours and two cut fingers. The bracket is a proto type to check it's operation and I will be making a new one to be sent out for powder coating. I goofed when I ordered the Ward fan, I purchased the wrong finish. I am debating whether to get the chrome one or the black powder coated one so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Please note, there have been a few posts regarding replacing the ignition switch with a toggle switch or a two position rocker or rotary switch. Be aware, this switch is not a common two contact three position switch. This bike utilizes a CAN BUS so the switch does not operate using 12 volt battery voltage. The internals of the switch have two resistor arays that are wired across the BCM. In the accessory position, a 600 ohm resistor is placed across the BCM inputs and when the switch is placed in the run position, a 200 ohm resistor is placed across the BCM inputs. Although the switch has been replaced due to the recall, I have taped a 200 ohm resistor inside my saddle bag cover that I can jump across the ignition switch plug in an emergency if the switch becomes defective. If you decide to do something similar, make sure you have the recall done prior to doing so. Dealer said Harley will not allow the recall if the ignition switch has been modified.
haven't removed the switch before and can't see behind it, how does it secure to the bracket? is there a jam nut on the back side? also that is good info you have stated about using the 200 ohm resistor in case of switch failure.
I hated the stock location of the ignition switch on my 14 Low Rider. My bike runs a little hot so I was looking for a cooling solution. I ordered a Wards cooling fan but because of the switch mounting, there was no way to install the Ward fans on the bike. Since the bike had to go to Harley for the ignition switch replacement recall I decided to fabricate a relocation bracket while the bike was there. By no means am I an accomplished metal worker nor mechanic but I decided to come up with a solution. I cut out a small mounting bracket from some scrap aluminum for the switch using a Dremel and drilled the required mounting holes. Since my bike does not have ABS, I decided to mount it directly under the battery box using the mounting screw for the box and the two mounting holes for the ABS control box located on the frame that are covered by two plastic plugs. I had to extend the two ignition switch wires to reach the new location. Simple job of cutting and soldering longer wires. Once all that was done I moved on to the fan installation. I had to remove the tank to gain access to the top engine mount bracket to facilitate it's removal and replacement . I installed a stock 2014 Street Bob engine/horn bracket part # 16328-04A ($15.01), Chrome Horn Bracket # 69120-91 ($25.00), a Loud Side Mount Horn Kit # 69060-90H ($36.00), Horn Rubber Mount # 69123-92A ($4.51), Acorn Lock Nut # 7549A ($3.30), and chose a Drag Chrome Round Horn Cover instead of the standard Cow Bell. I removed the front horn and extended the wires to reach the new Loud Horn. The whole process took me about 6 hours and two cut fingers. The bracket is a proto type to check it's operation and I will be making a new one to be sent out for powder coating. I goofed when I ordered the Ward fan, I purchased the wrong finish. I am debating whether to get the chrome one or the black powder coated one so any suggestions would be appreciated.
Please note, there have been a few posts regarding replacing the ignition switch with a toggle switch or a two position rocker or rotary switch. Be aware, this switch is not a common two contact three position switch. This bike utilizes a CAN BUS so the switch does not operate using 12 volt battery voltage. The internals of the switch have two resistor arays that are wired across the BCM. In the accessory position, a 600 ohm resistor is placed across the BCM inputs and when the switch is placed in the run position, a 200 ohm resistor is placed across the BCM inputs. Although the switch has been replaced due to the recall, I have taped a 200 ohm resistor inside my saddle bag cover that I can jump across the ignition switch plug in an emergency if the switch becomes defective. If you decide to do something similar, make sure you have the recall done prior to doing so. Dealer said Harley will not allow the recall if the ignition switch has been modified.
Would you mind posting a picture of the front of your bike and telling us what windshield and auxiliary lights you've installed? Thanks.
There is a set screw in the bottom of the switch **** that you loosen to remove the ****. I used a pair of offset long nose pliers to loosen the switch retaining ring. Once that is removed, the switch is free to be pulled out behind the bracket. Remove the wiring plug first to make room for the switch to pass between the cylinders.
Would you mind posting a picture of the front of your bike and telling us what windshield and auxiliary lights you've installed? Thanks.
The windshield is the Quick-Release Compact Windshield part # 58346-06 18" clear-Polished Braces. I had to cut the bottom sides of the shield to accommodate the aux lights.
The aux lights are the Harley Auxiliary Light Kit part # 68605-08A and the Turn Signal Relocation Kit part # 68603-01.
The Amber LED Aux Bulbs are from Custom Dynamics. I think they discontinued them since they are no longer listed on their website.
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2014 Low Rider FXDL Ignition Switch Relocation
