FXDL rear brake pad question
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Leland, NC
FXDL rear brake pad question
Ok, so still waiting on my service manual to get here I ordered 10 days ago (thanks US Snailmail) and my rear brake pads are all but gone. So need to replace and never have done a set like these. Searched youtube and this forum and don't see much on the how to's. From my best gathering I don't need to remove the caliper to replace the pads. And there is a pin that holds them together. I see a see three bolts that hold the caliper together. Any advice? How to remove and reinstall? Service manual pics? Collapse the piston back into the caliper without opening up the system and having to bleed and or removing the caliper? 2000 FXDL model. Thanks in advance
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Niceville
Don't take apart the caliper with those three bolts just to replace the pads! You only need to remove the center bolt that holds the pads into the caliper.
You don't have to open up the system to collapse the pistons. I wrap a towel around the outer surface of the caliper and, with the old pads in, use a screw clamp. Never replaced pads without removing the caliper so I can't help you there. It's only two bolts so its easy to remove. Also, if you do remove the caliper don't let it hang by the brake line. Support it with a zip tie or something.
Bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid is always a good idea on an older bike. Pickup a vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight for about $15.
Easy job.
You don't have to open up the system to collapse the pistons. I wrap a towel around the outer surface of the caliper and, with the old pads in, use a screw clamp. Never replaced pads without removing the caliper so I can't help you there. It's only two bolts so its easy to remove. Also, if you do remove the caliper don't let it hang by the brake line. Support it with a zip tie or something.
Bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid is always a good idea on an older bike. Pickup a vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight for about $15.
Easy job.
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Leland, NC
I believe you have my model confused with another.... there isn't two bolt on this one that I see. you have to remove the wheel to remove the caliper it appears.
Don't take apart the caliper with those three bolts just to replace the pads! You only need to remove the center bolt that holds the pads into the caliper.
You don't have to open up the system to collapse the pistons. I wrap a towel around the outer surface of the caliper and, with the old pads in, use a screw clamp. Never replaced pads without removing the caliper so I can't help you there. It's only two bolts so its easy to remove. Also, if you do remove the caliper don't let it hang by the brake line. Support it with a zip tie or something.
Bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid is always a good idea on an older bike. Pickup a vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight for about $15.
Easy job.
You don't have to open up the system to collapse the pistons. I wrap a towel around the outer surface of the caliper and, with the old pads in, use a screw clamp. Never replaced pads without removing the caliper so I can't help you there. It's only two bolts so its easy to remove. Also, if you do remove the caliper don't let it hang by the brake line. Support it with a zip tie or something.
Bleeding the brakes and replacing the fluid is always a good idea on an older bike. Pickup a vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight for about $15.
Easy job.
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From: Leland, NC
So I'm following you correctly, your saying the wheel will have to come off to replace the pads?
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You can do that style on the bike. It's a little more challenging than other types, but I do it all the time.
Remove the two 1/4" 12 point pad pins. Then the pads drop out either side of the rotor. Then you gotta compress the pistons back in a little. I use a screwdriver between the old pads (don't pry on the rotor) and push them back out. It ruins the old pads, but you're trashing them anyways. Then slide the new ones up and lock them with the pins again.
In the future, I try to time the rear pad changes with a rear wheel change to make it easier. If I don't think they'll go another tire, I swap them out to save the hassle.
Remove the two 1/4" 12 point pad pins. Then the pads drop out either side of the rotor. Then you gotta compress the pistons back in a little. I use a screwdriver between the old pads (don't pry on the rotor) and push them back out. It ruins the old pads, but you're trashing them anyways. Then slide the new ones up and lock them with the pins again.
In the future, I try to time the rear pad changes with a rear wheel change to make it easier. If I don't think they'll go another tire, I swap them out to save the hassle.
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Leland, NC
Ok so just to throw an update out there to anyone looking in the future. Completed my rear pad replacement yesterday afternoon. And the verdict is..... easiest brake job ever! 15 minutes and I was done. You don't need to remove anything but the two pins and decompress the pistons and slide the new pads right in.
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From: Sandy Eggo's North County
You need to remove the caliper for clearance of the rim during wheel removal. (IF you want to remove your wheel. Say, for bearing lubrication/inspection or tire work.)
You don't need to remove the wheel for pad replacement.
You don't need to remove the caliper for pad replacement, but it sure is a lot easier if you do.
You don't need to remove the wheel for any "brake work."
When I say, "remove the caliper," I mean unbolt from it's mount only. DO NOT remove the brake line as it just creates more unnecessary work. Just unbolt the caliper and swing it out of the way. Don't let the caliper "hang" by the brake line.
Brake lines are not meant to support any weight. Use a bent coat hanger or string or ziptie to support the caliper in suspension.
Hope this helps, make sense?
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Leland, NC
As I stated in an earlier post buddy... I believe your referring to a newer version. These calipers are not removable from the mount. See pic attached. They mount through the same hardware as the wheel. But the job is done and neither had to be removed... just pins.
You have it backwards.
You need to remove the caliper for clearance of the rim during wheel removal. (IF you want to remove your wheel. Say, for bearing lubrication/inspection or tire work.)
You don't need to remove the wheel for pad replacement.
You don't need to remove the caliper for pad replacement, but it sure is a lot easier if you do.
You don't need to remove the wheel for any "brake work."
When I say, "remove the caliper," I mean unbolt from it's mount only. DO NOT remove the brake line as it just creates more unnecessary work. Just unbolt the caliper and swing it out of the way. Don't let the caliper "hang" by the brake line.
Brake lines are not meant to support any weight. Use a bent coat hanger or string or ziptie to support the caliper in suspension.
Hope this helps, make sense?
You need to remove the caliper for clearance of the rim during wheel removal. (IF you want to remove your wheel. Say, for bearing lubrication/inspection or tire work.)
You don't need to remove the wheel for pad replacement.
You don't need to remove the caliper for pad replacement, but it sure is a lot easier if you do.
You don't need to remove the wheel for any "brake work."
When I say, "remove the caliper," I mean unbolt from it's mount only. DO NOT remove the brake line as it just creates more unnecessary work. Just unbolt the caliper and swing it out of the way. Don't let the caliper "hang" by the brake line.
Brake lines are not meant to support any weight. Use a bent coat hanger or string or ziptie to support the caliper in suspension.
Hope this helps, make sense?