FWIW ... Pretty sure that "STD" cases are tagged on the left side above the timing hole.

 

I agree, Larry. Looks like there may be ‘STD’ in raised letters on the left case in the position you mentioned. I’ve seen it a few times before.

Also looks like the R-H case may have reinforcement ribs at lower front.

And notice 2947 on top rear of each case. These four numbers are also in the centre of the eight numbers in the main ID number at the front of the R-H case. I’ve seen this style of numbering on other STD cases.
Eric

 

Man Eric greatly appreciate your help, I am going to look over & make some notes based on your posts.

You are correct, the R-H case does have reinforced ribs, that was my first clue that the bottom end wasn't Harley.

Yes sir, it does have raised "STD" letters where you pointed out.





I may have some spare time this weekend to do some more digging, will post pics, questions or any other update I come accross. Thank you again!

 

Lots of good info here! I have a similar '77 FX project, looking forward to what else you find and where you go with the project.

 

Alright fella's, got my hands on the scoot over the weekend, didn't spend much time as I wanted to but made some progress. Added some more pics, got a few questions regarding startup.

Got the bike to turn on (high idle) but shuts off after five seconds or so. With that said, I was only able to turn it on with the enrichment device (Picture #1 finger pointing at it) fully open & air cleaner on. When I took off the air cleaner it sounds like it wants to turn on but nothing. Just went over the PDF from S&S Super B install & here is what is next on the list:

1. Adjust the idle screw. (Picture #1 inside red circle)
2. Adjust the gap in the plugs I have, (S&S calls for .022 to .025 plug gap).
3. Take apart the carbs & clean them the best I can with carb cleaner & compressed air.
4. Adjust float to correct setting.
5. It is hard to tell if I have an intake leak without having the bike on & spray soap with water, but will try to check this by shutting the lights off in the garage & see if light comes out the connections with a small flashlight. Any other methods welcomed.
6. Last but not least, check what manual calls for oil level, when I pulled the stick to see the level seems to me it is over filled, way passed the indentation. (Will post picture) Might also be a reason of why is having a hard time staying on.

I also had to get new gas tanks as the ones I had were toast, liner was very poor, petcock was leaking all over (Picture #4), & a bunch of debris in them. It crossed my mind there was no gas in the bowl causing the bike to shut off after a few seconds. I did take the bowl plug off (Picture #2), leaned the bike to the right until gas started to come out.

Picture #3 shows the main discharge tube, excuse my lack of knowledge but am I supposed to see gas being sprayed from there every time I roll on the throttle?


Other than the mentioned above the battery is fully charged, plugged on battery tender on a daily. Need to get rear turning light bulbs since the old ones were broken. Rear brake light works, running light works, front brake light does not work, might be just the switch for all I know. Headlight work, low & high. Horn button works but sounds like it has seen better days, waiting on next swap meet to replace it. Got new brake pads yesterday so will tackle that over the week & flush the brake lines to replace with new fluids, no telling how old they are. Need a clutch cable as well, & once I get the bike started lubricate the chain. Pretty sure you all folks know the drill, slowly but surely.

 

Got the points cover off to double check my timing but got me a little surprise (Picture #1 & 2). I am digging some info on the Dyna S Ignition systems, saw a couple of YouTube videos about it, trying to figure out how to time it correctly if I need to.

Also took a look at the pushrods to make sure they were correctly adjusted. Seemed the past owner had a leak (Picture #3) on the lower rear exhaust pushrod & used some AutoZone gasket maker. Will stop at the dealership & buy some new o-rings, seem pretty inexpensive to replace with new.

Picture #4 is the front exhaust & intake pushrods.

Quick question, on picture #5, is it me or do one of the pushrods is not aligned? Bent perhaps. It might be a very broad answer, but any suggestions as of why? Thank you in advance.

 

Front exhaust looks right...usually looks little off, normal!

 

What year did the MOCO go to o-rings for the pushrod tubes.? My buddy's 78 FXE 80"er still had the corks....

 

Here is the procedure for the dual fire dyna S

http://www.powercommander.com/downlo...uals/DS6-1.pdf

 

Thank you for clarifying, was worried it'd needed to be replaced. Why is it like such?

I am unsure of that to be honest, considering I have STD lower cases & cylinder heads the pushrod seals were "upgraded" to o-rings. Maybe someone here can chime in on it.

I am going to post some pictures of the coil, not sure which model I have. Tried setting the timing on bike (using the same file you attached) but the timing marks are different on my flywheel. Instead of a stamped line & dot all I have is two small holes drilled through, other mark is a single hole drilled through as well. Will snap pictures to explain better. No other markings on flywheel.