Just another shovel.
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 489
Likes: 56
From: 6 ft. from the sun - TX
k...couple things additional. You posted a pic above of your carb-to-manifold. You are missing the carb-to- manifold insulator block. There should also be a gasket for the backing plate to carb. This would be a good time to change the rubber O-rings on the manifold. You mentioned early on that the bike had been sitting. Those O-rings get hard and can cause air leaks. And sice you have tghe carb off put a straight edge across the face of the manifold. It should be perfectly flat to ensure a good seal between it and the insulator block.
That carb needs to be supported. Went looking at your pics you posted and don't see any type of support bracket. The old B-carbs used a bar (for lack of a better word) that went from the bottom manifold bolt (on one end) and attached to the case stud that runs between your cylinder heads (on the other). You can make your own. It is just a flat bar that was maybe 3/4" wide and just greater than the distance between the case stud and the bottom manifold bolt. If that carb isn't hard mounted it can move and create an air leak. Big thing is making sure that your carb is level.
Maybe the issues you have described above in post #21 would not occur. Could be too much air. Worth a try before digging too deeply
Your last pic of the outer cover for your kicker cover...that is definitely a crack and needs repair.
That carb needs to be supported. Went looking at your pics you posted and don't see any type of support bracket. The old B-carbs used a bar (for lack of a better word) that went from the bottom manifold bolt (on one end) and attached to the case stud that runs between your cylinder heads (on the other). You can make your own. It is just a flat bar that was maybe 3/4" wide and just greater than the distance between the case stud and the bottom manifold bolt. If that carb isn't hard mounted it can move and create an air leak. Big thing is making sure that your carb is level.
Maybe the issues you have described above in post #21 would not occur. Could be too much air. Worth a try before digging too deeply
Your last pic of the outer cover for your kicker cover...that is definitely a crack and needs repair.
By insulator block you mean a gasket correct?
I have the gasket from the carb to the intake manifold along with the o-ring. Also another gasket from the carb to the air intake backing plate. Last but not least is the gasket from the float bowl. They aren't in the picture but will be replaced.
Carb is supported by the intake manifold on one end. The opposite side attaches to the air cleaner backing plate.
Now the bar that you mentioned is attached to the air cleaner backing plate to the stud you mentioned.
"Maybe the issues you have described above in post #21 would not occur. Could be too much air. Worth a try before digging too deeply"
You hit the nail on the head, decided to replace all seals with new because there might be too much air going in. You da'man!
Trans kicker cover is cracked bad, oil came out quick as soon as I stood up the bike. Will eventually replace but first I want to get it started, idle, then move on to next.
Last edited by TAKITO SEXY; Dec 29, 2016 at 02:14 PM.
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 489
Likes: 56
From: 6 ft. from the sun - TX
Pic #1 looks good for the float level..
Pic#2 is the Intermediate jet, just get a .0295 and you'll be good.
Pic#3 is you main emulsion tube and the main jet screws into the bottom, hard to read but it looks like a 62? I would think a 70 or 72 would be better if it's an 80" motor.
As for the popping out the exhaust sounds more like you have a burnt exhaust valve or the valve adjustment is off not allowing the valve to close. I think you need to do a compression and or leak down test... At least start there so you know the compression is good...
Pic#2 is the Intermediate jet, just get a .0295 and you'll be good.
Pic#3 is you main emulsion tube and the main jet screws into the bottom, hard to read but it looks like a 62? I would think a 70 or 72 would be better if it's an 80" motor.
As for the popping out the exhaust sounds more like you have a burnt exhaust valve or the valve adjustment is off not allowing the valve to close. I think you need to do a compression and or leak down test... At least start there so you know the compression is good...
Main jet is a 72
Intermediate jet is very hard to read but looks like an 82 or a 32.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 742
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Maybe 3/8-1/2" thick?
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