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Before jumping on explaining the pictures below, can someone chime in some light please? I've got the bike to start with the enrichment fully open but the front cylinder is popping real loud (flames) through exhaust. So I leave it open for like ten seconds, then close the enrichment valve. The bike stays hanging on high revs for about twenty seconds then sputters, eventually shutting off. After that is very hard to get it to start again. I adjusted the float bowl & clean gas is present from tanks, to line attached to needle valve on carbs. It is hard to check for intake leaks without having the bike on. Spark plugs gat set to .040, manual calls for .038-.043
Picture#1 shows the float bowl adjusted to specs. S&S calls for 1/32" from the surface to the opposite side of the needle. It looks less than that in the picture because of the angle I took it, got to hold the camera phone somehow, lol.
Picture #2 shows the intermediate jet, picture# 3 is the main jet. Both of them taken before cleaning them up. I was trying to find any markings on them regarding their size but no luck, only one I found was a number 2 on the main jet, can be seen on picture #4. Any help of how to identify what size are they? Saw a couple of YouTube videos from S&S, markings should be stamped around right above the threaded part, sadly mine wasn't the case.
Pictue #5 shows the Dyna S coil, based on the Dyna pdf ignition installation file I have a:
Street
SD6-1 Ignition
DC7-1 or DC8-1 coils
Can anyone confirm this based on the pictures? Thank you in advance.
While I was at it, decided to drain the primary oil, picture #6. I had some extra engine oil laying around so in it went, picture #7. Took a peek inside & discovered some hairline cracks, picture #8, might be from over tightening the chain adjuster by a previous owner.
Last edited by TAKITO SEXY; Dec 27, 2016 at 02:32 PM.
Pic #1 looks good for the float level..
Pic#2 is the Intermediate jet, just get a .0295 and you'll be good.
Pic#3 is you main emulsion tube and the main jet screws into the bottom, hard to read but it looks like a 62? I would think a 70 or 72 would be better if it's an 80" motor.
As for the popping out the exhaust sounds more like you have a burnt exhaust valve or the valve adjustment is off not allowing the valve to close. I think you need to do a compression and or leak down test... At least start there so you know the compression is good...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Dec 27, 2016 at 03:38 PM.
if the motor is stroked ...as stated before ....try retarding the timing about 5 degrees and see if that helps starting and idle ....may need more than that ...
Pic #1 looks good for the float level..
Pic#2 is the Intermediate jet, just get a .0295 and you'll be good.
Pic#3 is you main emulsion tube and the main jet screws into the bottom, hard to read but it looks like a 62? I would think a 70 or 72 would be better if it's an 80" motor.
As for the popping out the exhaust sounds more like you have a burnt exhaust valve or the valve adjustment is off not allowing the valve to close. I think you need to do a compression and or leak down test... At least start there so you know the compression is good...
I'll try to hit the local CL for a compression tester, do not have one handy. Also, will re-check adjustment, doesn't hurt. Cleaned the carbs best I could, could see light coming through the holes so wouldn't think they are plugged. Previous owner said it was a stroked engine, but without taking it apart to see the pistons I cannot say with certainty the size. I posted other pics of engine close ups in the previous pages, not sure if that helps.
Originally Posted by springers4ever
if the motor is stroked ...as stated before ....try retarding the timing about 5 degrees and see if that helps starting and idle ....may need more than that ...
By retarding you mean turn the plate counterclockwise five degrees correct? Double checking, lol. Thank you in advance.
You might want to recheck your plug gap, in your post #21 above, you indicate a plug gap of .040. If I am not mistaken the Dana Installation Instructions call out a plug gap of .025. Also, you can get an idea of your stroke by using a long (12 inch'ish) nylon tie wrap (zip-tie). Place the tie wrap down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole (big end down) and rotate the crank slowly until the tie wrap stops going down, mark it with a Sharpe. Now, continue rotating the crank slowly until the tie wrap stops coming up, mark it. Measure the distance between the marks. While not precise, it will give you an idea of your stroke, ie: 4 1/4, 4 1/2 etc. I use a white tie wrap, its easier for my old eyes to see the marks I make. Last, you will have the push rods out to replace the cork seals/O-rings, this will give you the opportunity to ensure the push rods are adjusted correctly per the service manual. Good luck with your new to you shovel, I love my 77 FLH.
Thin k you will find that what "looks like" a crack is not. To me it just looks like casting marks. There is no pressure against that area.
I'll take a closer look once I adjust the primary chain. You are correct, there isn't any pressure on that area, that's why I am not eager to know if it is a crack or not. Will update.
Originally Posted by GANDALF
You might want to recheck your plug gap, in your post #21 above, you indicate a plug gap of .040. If I am not mistaken the Dana Installation Instructions call out a plug gap of .025. Also, you can get an idea of your stroke by using a long (12 inch'ish) nylon tie wrap (zip-tie). Place the tie wrap down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole (big end down) and rotate the crank slowly until the tie wrap stops going down, mark it with a Sharpe. Now, continue rotating the crank slowly until the tie wrap stops coming up, mark it. Measure the distance between the marks. While not precise, it will give you an idea of your stroke, ie: 4 1/4, 4 1/2 etc. I use a white tie wrap, its easier for my old eyes to see the marks I make. Last, you will have the push rods out to replace the cork seals/O-rings, this will give you the opportunity to ensure the push rods are adjusted correctly per the service manual. Good luck with your new to you shovel, I love my 77 FLH.
Gandalf, you are also correct, .025 gap, I couldn't get it started per Dyna instructions. When I went back & gap the plugs at .040 per H-D manual it fired up after a few tries, haven't tried anything in the middle. Grounded the spark plugs (@ .040) on engine cases & spark is visible. Any thoughts?
Greatly appreciate the trick with the tie wrap, first time I've heard of it & I'll definitely try it out. Will update.
Picture #1 just shows how car intake is attached to heads. I have o-ring type seals, made the mistake of ordering the rubber band type so will have to make another trip to stealership soon to order the correct set. I will also be replacing the gasket that sits on the face (lol), along with the o-ring in the carb face on picture #2.
With throttle set screw all the way out I placed a flash light & seems like a lot of light is coming through, plate bevels not sitting flush. Will clean it up a tad bit, S&S installation pdf says bevels should sit flush then turn set screw until opens just a bit as a starting point.
Picture #3 shows attachment allen bolts circled in red, the top screw has a flat washer that I am pretty sure it shouldn't be there. Flat washer O.D. is too big that might be obstructing the screw to go all the way in causing an air leak. By looking at the markings on the intake manifold there should be a pressure washer.
Assembly order = allen bolt - pressure washer - intake manifold - gasket - Oring - carb.
Picture #4 shows the intake manifold, only mark I could find was a #3 stamp. Not sure what it means but will be cleaning up all the gook off of it.
Pictures #5, 6, 7 & 8 are self explanatory, not the best looking valves you will see today. Input anyone?
Picture #9 & 10 show the nasty crack in the trans kicker cover, oil dripped out as soon as I stood up the bike on the wheel chock. Will need replacement, but first need to get the bike to idle, then adjust & replace as I go.
Last edited by TAKITO SEXY; Dec 29, 2016 at 02:42 PM.
k...couple things additional. You posted a pic above of your carb-to-manifold. You are missing the carb-to- manifold insulator block. There should also be a gasket for the backing plate to carb. This would be a good time to change the rubber O-rings on the manifold. You mentioned early on that the bike had been sitting. Those O-rings get hard and can cause air leaks. And sice you have tghe carb off put a straight edge across the face of the manifold. It should be perfectly flat to ensure a good seal between it and the insulator block.
That carb needs to be supported. Went looking at your pics you posted and don't see any type of support bracket. The old B-carbs used a bar (for lack of a better word) that went from the bottom manifold bolt (on one end) and attached to the case stud that runs between your cylinder heads (on the other). You can make your own. It is just a flat bar that was maybe 3/4" wide and just greater than the distance between the case stud and the bottom manifold bolt. If that carb isn't hard mounted it can move and create an air leak. Big thing is making sure that your carb is level.
Maybe the issues you have described above in post #21 would not occur. Could be too much air. Worth a try before digging too deeply
Your last pic of the outer cover for your kicker cover...that is definitely a crack and needs repair.
Last edited by panz4ever; Dec 29, 2016 at 01:50 PM.
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