does anyone have any pointers for mounting this amp on the stock tray? I already clipped the zip ties that hold the wiring for the gauges which allowed me to push the amp back far enough to set the front down into the small lip on the stock amp tray but I see no way to attach it. The back is sitting up due to the step on the tray so Velcro isn't working. Any help is greatly appreciated

 

I used a 1/4" thick piece of laminate to get the Diamond 800.2 to sit flat. I was running into the same thing with it. Worked like a charm. I didn't think you'd run into that when I mocked it up quick, but I didn't have the vent installed or have the tray screwed in

 

Yeah I just hope the thing fits. How far over the front of the stock tray can it hang before putting the fairing on becomes an issue?

 

Well I made a 1/4 thick plate that allowed me to mount the amp. Unfortunately due to the additional height the fairing will not go back on unless I remove the top cover of the amp ( exposing the gain, hpf/lpf, etc). At this point I'm guessing this xdi either just doesn't fit on the stock tray in the fairing or I have to run it without the top cover which is kinda scary because I have a gap at the vent due to a thicker windshield. Has anyone gotten this amp to fit ? Is it safe to run without the top cover assuming I cover the top with a plastic sheet or something? Thanks for any help

 

Nah, it will fit fine. Take the plate you made, nice job on it, and remove it. Place the amp directly on the black cross brace that's on top of the radio and push it all the way back into the fairing. (Don't push it so far to where you bend the wire on the fairing gauges) Then temporarily take two pieces of tape and place on each side of the amp just to hold it in place. Slip the fairing on just to verify it fits. It should fit just fine.

Remove the fairing and amp. Run to Home Depot or Lowes and get 1 of the following. 1 tube of 100% silicone OR industrial Velcro. My preference is the silicone.
Mounting the amp to the cross brace is simple. If using the Velcro, that's fairly self explanatory.
If using the silicone, again my preference, you will need some duct tape for temporary holding the amp in place after applying silicone.
Before you start with the silicone make sure that where your doing the work is at least 50 degrees or warmer for 24 hr curing time. Clean the bottom of the amp AND the cross brace with rubbing alcohol and allow it to dry. (You will also do this if you use the Velcro)
Now on the cross brace, noting where the amp fits, put a large dollop of silicone where each corner of the amp will be and 3 more in the middle area. You will need to make the dollops tall enough to clear the height of the cross brace ribs, about 1/2" taller than the ribs. The idea is you want enough silicone to bond the two but not so much to where the silicone oozes out everywhere.
Place the amp on the crossbrace and use duct tap (or similar) to tape the amp down to the cross brace to keep it in place. Let it cure for 24 hours the remove the tape.
If done correctly it will hold the amp like a vise!
I've done about 40 bikes this way with absolutely ZERO issues or the amp coming off, including my own bikes since 2013.
It won't move or come off unless you make it. Simply take a knife and while pulling up on the front of the amp start cutting the silicone.
I will post a pic shortly of a bike I've got in my shop now using the silicone method.
I've made many small/thin amp trays for this application but the silicone is a hell of a lot easier and flawless.

 

Thanks for the quick response. I just got done using both your methods. I used Velcro pieces instead of tape. The fairing seems like it will go on as it sits right now. Is there anything wrong with having the LL directly under the power/ ground as pictured? Also while I'm asking can I run the rear speaker wire along side the power/ ground in the tunnel? I really appreciate the help!

 

Great job buddy!! You did verify fairing fitment with the air dam installed too??
That LL can go anywhere you can place it and secure it.

 

Thanks again for the help. I didn't have the vent in place but I will mock it up again before I try to final assemble it. When running lid speakers can I run the wire in the tunnel with my power/ground? I'm hoping to get it running tomorrow

 

I think you just wanna run the speaker wires on the opposite side of the power and ground.

Good to see you got the amp in there.

 

Like matt said, run the power ground away/opposite side from the speaker wires. This will minimize/eliminate any possible interference. Also Use good quality 12ga speaker wire for this run to the lids. If you can cover the whole run in wire loom that would be a good idea to keep the speaker wires from chaffing.