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But almost $700 for two takes away the cool Factor.
I need new also. One or both are warped.
I agree the price of admission is pretty steep, however, lower rotational mass, 50k warranty, 30% better stopping power, and brakes that run cooler resulting in less fade helped me justify the expense. I guess I should have said all that instead of them just being cool. And the number one reason being they can help save your ***, and that my friend is an excellent investment. And if they warp (highly unlikely) you get a new set. Can't say I miss my factory rotors.
Outside of someone advertising this, can you provide proof this actually happens. I have been running MMC rotors since 2006 on my daily driver. MMC requires an organic material for brake pads. MMC, under these conditions will never wear. The black anodizing on the friction rings looks the same as it did in 2006.
Brake pads play a part in all braking solutions. Use the same brake pad on the same diameter rotor (larger will stop better due to a larger amount of torque being applied) choosing MMC, Stainless Steel, and Iron and see the results as we have. The MMC is much lighter and will not rust. It also has a lower melt temperature of just over 1,000 degrees F. These temperatures would never be reached on the street, however, on the track is another thing. Testing the new (at the time) Buell, the temperatures reached <1,500 degrees F. If you ever watched a race after the sun went down the Buell's front rotor glowed red. The riders of the Buell team did an exceptional job bring home the bikes at the end of the race. MMC was not suitable for the track and never used in an actual race on the Buell. Do not confuse Ceramic or Carbon rotors with MMC.
While I do not use Squeeze cast rotors, I purchase for my own bike Spun Cast rotors. MMC is lighter than either Stainless or Iron. The Iron rotor will stop in the shortest distance, rusts almost immediately, and is heavy. In no way am I saying do not buy MMC but the claim of using the same brake pad compound on all three material rotors giving the MMC rotor a 30% gain is something I would have to see and proven as it did not work on my application. The other positive factors is what leads me to use MMC on my bike. Would I still buy them, yes as I already have them on three bikes currently. This fork is new and designed to go on my FLT. I am currently working on fender brackets, the above is just to hold the fender on for measurements.
That is a negative. I haven't independently tested the Lyndall rotors against the factory rotors to verify the difference in stopping power. And I agree the 30% claim could be misinterpreted to be actual stopping distance which may not be the case, however, after many years drag racing, rotational mass reduction was the key to putting horsepower to the ground and "assisting" the braking system to bringing things to a halt as well (and a parachute). The Lyndalls are much lighter than stock and seem to slow things down better than the factory units did. In a panic stop all I need is that extra little advantage to keep me out of trouble , it's a game of inches and I hope it never gets that close but I like to know it's there when I need it. My next major mod to my bike after a set of your shocks is a set of Brocks carbon fiber wheels. Further reducing my rotational mass and freeing up horsepower and easing the load on my brakes at the same time. Too expensive to some and not worth it to others but to me it's the biggest difference you can make on a bike regardless of overall weight. It looks like you are already there with your setup. Pretty sweet btw. Hopefully this discussion will assist the OP in some way to find a rotor that won't warp and will fit his factory wheel. I feel the Lyndalls do that, albeit at a higher price of admission.
That is a negative. I haven't independently tested the Lyndall rotors against the factory rotors to verify the difference in stopping power. And I agree the 30% claim could be misinterpreted to be actual stopping distance which may not be the case, however, after many years drag racing, rotational mass reduction was the key to putting horsepower to the ground and "assisting" the braking system to bringing things to a halt as well (and a parachute). The Lyndalls are much lighter than stock and seem to slow things down better than the factory units did. In a panic stop all I need is that extra little advantage to keep me out of trouble , it's a game of inches and I hope it never gets that close but I like to know it's there when I need it. My next major mod to my bike after a set of your shocks is a set of Brocks carbon fiber wheels. Further reducing my rotational mass and freeing up horsepower and easing the load on my brakes at the same time. Too expensive to some and not worth it to others but to me it's the biggest difference you can make on a bike regardless of overall weight. It looks like you are already there with your setup. Pretty sweet btw.
Hopefully this discussion will assist the OP in some way to find a rotor that won't warp and will fit his factory wheel. I feel the Lyndalls do that, albeit at a higher price of admission.
Yes, I have been running C/F 17" wheels since 11.9.2007 and MMC 320mm rotors on my FXR with inverted forks & triple trees I built.
The OEM slab 11 1/2" SS rotors weigh in at 4.2#/ea. My MMC 320mm rotors 2.2#, my full SS 320mm floaters 3.4#, and my new CMC (Ceramic Matrix Composite) 1# 8.7 OZ.
C/F wheels will make your bike turn faster, as well as brake and accelerate faster. There is no difference at speed from a regular wheel. I spent a lot of money getting this bike a lot lighter such as fenders & aluminum swing arm when reduced weight & FXR's was not fashionable in 2006.
To the people who put large front wheels, heavy huge rear wheels, drop a rotor and think it is ok, you never really need good braking until the end anyhow. Read my articles on Rotating mass & Inertia.
I have used the lyndall rotors(with recommended pads, gold i think) on the same bike on the same day over the same circuit as the oem ss rotors oem pads, less than 1k miles on oem 2014 flhx.. Broke em in as per lyndall instructions. Not only were the lyndalls NOT 30% shorter in braking distance, they required more lever effort. And in this application the weight savings is much less than in previous years due to the lack of carrier. I really like cast iron for street use. High cf and good modulation. Weight isn't great and as Howard stated the rust instantly but PM used to flash chrome their iron rotors, you rode 'em for a little while, pulled the pads, scuffed up to remove the chrome that was embedded in the pads and voila. They only rusted where the pads travelled on the rotors. But alas us HD riders are too vain to have great brakes because boo hoo they rust a little. I do like my galfer wave rotors for the street. I'm not going all in with carbon wheels and radial calipers, just looking for improvement at a realistic price for me. I think the galfers do this.
first look at our 320mm full floating rotors on my spoked wheel using any 2000~current front fork sliders. Finished making all and now off to the anodizer for black Brembo adapters for Brembo OEM Dresser/V-Rod calipers. The friction rings are off te the double disk grinders than into the Cryo tank for a protective coating. Just done for your viewing pleasure.
On the hogpro site they have lyndall 1 piece composite rotors for 325. How would these compare to a 2 piece with the stainless?
The composite 2 pieces are a little out of my price range.
On the hogpro site they have lyndall 1 piece composite rotors for 325. How would these compare to a 2 piece with the stainless?
The composite 2 pieces are a little out of my price range.
The one piece composites are what I have on my bike. They will serve you very well and carry the same warranty. They will bolt right up to your Enforcer and aren't much more than the PM custom rotors.
Mine sucked out of the gate. Dealer said they are cheap crap and S.E. is just as bad but wouldn't replace under warranty. Looking for a good deal on floating.
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