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Yesterday I installed my Yaffe 12" Monkey Bars on my 2016 RGU. I also installed the H-D poly riser bushings and the grips to match my pegs & boards.
Paul Yaffe's website says that extension kits are required for these bars over 10". This is not true. (I'm sure it's a CYA statement). There is plenty of wiring to do this job. I did remove the plastic wiring tray inside the speedo cluster, and cut the two zip ties holding the clutch and brakes cables - one on each.
The hardest part was accessing the caps screws on the bottom of the riser bushings. The forks has to be turned to each lock to get the socket on. I used a 6" and a 3" extension on a 3/8" drive ratchet coming in from above the fender. The new bushings are slightly longer and the new cap screws are also longer.
For the internal wiring I bought a 4' length of ball chain ($3.00). I did the left side first. On the right side I did the TBW harness first. This was a mistake as I struggled to get the chain in the bars for the switch-pack wiring. I removed the TBW harness and installed the switch-pack harness first. It is smaller & had a smoother outer cover. A little Vaseline on the TBW harness and everything went smoothly. All of the plugs on the '16s are small enough to fit through the holes in the bars - no need to disassemble connectors
Re-assembled and set my bar position. The Yaffe bars have slotted holes to mate with the factory installed pins, so no need to remove them. I was hoping to get them a little farther forward but I have a 13" Freedom Shields windshied. These shields are a little wider in the 'shoulder area' so the bars are where they are.
A short test ride around the block to confirm operation of all switches & controls and I'm happy. The factory bars on the RGU are approx 11". These 12" bars are about 2" higher, but the grip angle is soooo much better. The full 200 miles test ride will be on Wednesday.
Last edited by White Ice; Jan 30, 2017 at 01:06 PM.
They look good man, I like that style. Almost done putting on Wild1 chubby Reapers on my 14 RK. There are a lot of videos and write ups installing bars. If you have a few common tools, you can do this with a little patience and the knowledge that if you can't finish it, there is always someone that can help you. Seen another thread where dealers are quoting nearly $2000 to install bars. I bought mine slightly used for $250, $30 for extended switch harnesses and a few connectors, and I have heated grips. Love the look of some new bars.
How do you like those Split Vision Mirrors?, I'll be putting the 10'' monkey bars on my street glide in the next month or so and was looking at those exact mirrors.
How do you like those Split Vision Mirrors?, I'll be putting the 10'' monkey bars on my street glide in the next month or so and was looking at those exact mirrors.
They're not as good as they could be. The small mirror does not have enough convex to it, so it image is just a smaller version of the larger mirror. I was hoping they would give a wider angle but I'm greatly disappointed. Short answer - save your money.
White Ice..how was the 200 mile ride you mentioned in your first post? I am thinking about 10 or 12 Monkey bars as well and curious how you liked them..
Yea I am back and forth..I am only 5'8" and don't want to be reaching for the bars. Actually hoping that I can pull them back a bit with a improved wrist angle. Been experiencing some pain between my shoulder blades..
Yesterday I installed my Yaffe 12" Monkey Bars on my 2016 RGU. I also installed the H-D poly riser bushings and the grips to match my pegs & boards.
Paul Yaffe's website says that extension kits are required for these bars over 10". This is not true. (I'm sure it's a CYA statement). There is plenty of wiring to do this job. I did remove the plastic wiring tray inside the speedo cluster, and cut the two zip ties holding the clutch and brakes cables - one on each.
The hardest part was accessing the caps screws on the bottom of the riser bushings. The forks has to be turned to each lock to get the socket on. I used a 6" and a 3" extension on a 3/8" drive ratchet coming in from above the fender. The new bushings are slightly longer and the new cap screws are also longer.
For the internal wiring I bought a 4' length of ball chain ($3.00). I did the left side first. On the right side I did the TBW harness first. This was a mistake as I struggled to get the chain in the bars for the switch-pack wiring. I removed the TBW harness and installed the switch-pack harness first. It is smaller & had a smoother outer cover. A little Vaseline on the TBW harness and everything went smoothly. All of the plugs on the '16s are small enough to fit through the holes in the bars - no need to disassemble connectors
Re-assembled and set my bar position. The Yaffe bars have slotted holes to mate with the factory installed pins, so no need to remove them. I was hoping to get them a little farther forward but I have a 13" Freedom Shields windshied. These shields are a little wider in the 'shoulder area' so the bars are where they are.
A short test ride around the block to confirm operation of all switches & controls and I'm happy. The factory bars on the RGU are approx 11". These 12" bars are about 2" higher, but the grip angle is soooo much better. The full 200 miles test ride will be on Wednesday.
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Monkey Bars on my RGU - pics!
