my fxdls se 117 install step by step

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Feb 5, 2017 | 10:28 PM

#11

Nickd2689

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From: Northstreet, michigan

Torque specs-use em or pay the price. These gears have initial torque, and final torque specs. Each gets torqued to 15 ft lbs, then the crank bolt (smaller 1/2 head) gets torqued to 24 ft lbs and the cam (larger 9/16 head) gets torqued to 34 ft lbs. the SM also states that after the initial torque, loosen both bolts one complete revolution, then torque to final spec.

Install the lifters so the oil hole lines up with the crank case passages. Check SM. I soaked my lifters in syn 3 for a few hours while I tore down the motor.

Install the anti rotation pin, then the gasket.

Install both lifter covers next.

Getting the pistons ready, be sure to position the rings according to the diagram in the SM.

Lubricate the Pistons with a little oil, then Install the new Pistons by installing one c clip in each, then installing them onto the rods, that way you only have to put one c clip on while it's over the engine.

Last edited by Nickd2689; Feb 5, 2017 at 10:59 PM.

Feb 5, 2017 | 10:36 PM

#12

Nickd2689

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From: Northstreet, michigan

Install the new seal for the cylinder, and place the smaller orange o ring on the case. There is a slight recess where it goes so it will seal against the cylinder.

Cylinder installed. The next pic shows the piston ring compressor pliers I used to install the cylinder.

See I told you. Anyway, compress the rings and gently tap the cylinder down.

Two nice big jugs-Er um cylinder jugs.

Dirty head/gasket surface.

Clean surface. Be sure to clean the top as well.

Remove the exhaust gaskets if you haven't already.

The head gaskets specify which side is up. So do some of the others.

Feb 5, 2017 | 10:45 PM

#13

Nickd2689

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From: Northstreet, michigan

After installing the gasket, slide the heads on. The bolts on the left side of the heads are short, while the center are long. These too have initial torque, final torque, then an additional 90 degrees.

The longer bolts.

Disassembled the pushrod cover to replace the inside o ring.

I fought these springs so I used coated plier handles to push down so I could install the clips.

Pushrod covers assembled.

Don't know why this came up twice.

Install your rocker box gaskets and make sure the oil breather passage is covered as shown in the SM.

Install the rocker box, then the pushrods. I used the kit supplied perfect fit pushrods, so there's no adjustment. The tapered end of the pushrods goes up.

Feb 5, 2017 | 10:55 PM

#14

Nickd2689

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From: Northstreet, michigan

Make sure the push rods are at their lowest point before installing the rocker arms.

Torque to spec like everything else.

Once the rocker arms are installed it's time to install the oil breathers. Mine came with new bolts that had thread locker on them already so I didn't use any additional thread locker.

Oil breathers installed and torqued.

Installing the injectors and fuel rail/hose to the new throttle body. Also, put the flanges on the ghrottle body before you put the rubber gaskets on.

I installed the air cleaner backing plate to the throttle body before torquing the t body bolts. Once torqued I reinstalled the sensor to the throttle body and torqued the air cleaner plate down. Make sure you have the two o rings on the back of it. I was under the impression i would have to remove an adapter plate on the intake so it would fit the larger t body but there was nothing to remove.

Reconnect all the electrical connectors.

Install the gaskets and the covers. The SM states the left side use short bolts and the right side uses long bolts

Feb 5, 2017 | 11:06 PM

#15

Nickd2689

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From: Northstreet, michigan

Reinstall the motor mount.

Next the coil pack and wires. Remember, the smaller connector is unused but it does clip on to the plastic behind the coil pack. I forgot about this and it took me a while to realize where it went.

Took this oppurtunity to fill the engine oil before I forgot.

Reconnect the fuel gage connector and use the clip for the wiring so it doesn't contact the motor and burn.

Install the two fuel tank bolts, cross under tube, and fuel line.

Then I installed the seat cause I forgot I still had to connect the o2 sensors.

Startin to look like a bike again.

My dealer said they'd warranty this (I'm a master motorcycle mechanic) so I took a pic of the mileage just for the hell of it.

Feb 5, 2017 | 11:10 PM

#16

Nickd2689

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From: Northstreet, michigan

Replaced the exhaust gaskets with se gaskets and installed the headers with the 4 1/2 in nuts. Next I reconnected the o2 sensors.

Next I reinstalled the air cleaner with the 3 Allen heads.

Slide on the pipe and bracket and tighten down the 3 bracket bolts and 2 pipe to bracket nuts.

That's the o2 sensor connector again.

All done.

Feb 5, 2017 | 11:13 PM

#17

Nickd2689

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From: Northstreet, michigan

Ok all finished. I heat cycled the motor 4 times making sure to let it cool completely each time. Unfortunately dyno jet sent me a tune that isn't compatible with my bike, so I won't be riding til I get the correct one. I'm done posting pictures however tomorrow evening I will go back through this and make any necessary changes/additions. Hope this helps some people.

Last edited by Nickd2689; Feb 6, 2017 at 05:54 AM.

Feb 5, 2017 | 11:45 PM

#18

stonei3

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Joined: Aug 2016

Posts: 377

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From: Colorado

Good stuff. I'm sure you're chomping at the bit for break in to be over and to romp. Nice write up and you didn't hold back on the pics (which is awesome btw). Keep the updates comin.