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my fxdls se 117 install step by step

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Old Apr 25, 2020 | 10:27 AM
  #81  
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Badass man good job. Glad it helped you out. Bike is lookin awesome by the way.
 
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Old May 1, 2020 | 05:27 PM
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Default My dyno sheet

Originally Posted by Nickd2689
Badass man good job. Glad it helped you out. Bike is lookin awesome by the way.
hey thanks, I appreciate that. I originally had my heart set on a Lowrider S but the one they had there sold and so I got the FLSTFBS. I love it. I almost sent my heads off to be done. At the Dyno Tuner they did a leakdown and found that my front head leaks over 5% bad valve seal. Winter project as it's time to RIP my Ground pounder. Still pretty decent results. TTS-150 Cam put that torque down low. 110TQ at 200vand just climbs! Awesome the old But Dyno says Hell ya! And hold on!! GreatThread thanks a million



 

Last edited by Richard Bruce; May 1, 2020 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Forgot pic
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Old May 1, 2020 | 11:27 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Richard Bruce
hey thanks, I appreciate that. I originally had my heart set on a Lowrider S but the one they had there sold and so I got the FLSTFBS. I love it. I almost sent my heads off to be done. At the Dyno Tuner they did a leakdown and found that my front head leaks over 5% bad valve seal. Winter project as it's time to RIP my Ground pounder. Still pretty decent results. TTS-150 Cam put that torque down low. 110TQ at 200vand just climbs! Awesome the old But Dyno says Hell ya! And hold on!! GreatThread thanks a million
Hell yea man those are good numbers. Glad to see the end result!!! Thanks for sharing.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2020 | 12:37 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Nickd2689
Torque specs-use em or pay the price. These gears have initial torque, and final torque specs. Each gets torqued to 15 ft lbs, then the crank bolt (smaller 1/2 head) gets torqued to 24 ft lbs and the cam (larger 9/16 head) gets torqued to 34 ft lbs. the SM also states that after the initial torque, loosen both bolts one complete revolution, then torque to final spec.
Install the lifters so the oil hole lines up with the crank case passages. Check SM. I soaked my lifters in syn 3 for a few hours while I tore down the motor.
Install the anti rotation pin, then the gasket.
Install both lifter covers next.
Getting the pistons ready, be sure to position the rings according to the diagram in the SM.
Lubricate the Pistons with a little oil, then Install the new Pistons by installing one c clip in each, then installing them onto the rods, that way you only have to put one c clip on while it's over the engine.
Going over this again because we're putting a 110 kit on my buddies street bob this weekend.... I gotta ask because I don't remember and you didn't mention it. Did the rings come gapped and squared? If that s how they come out of the box Monty is gonna be pissed I had him buy a $70 tool for this lol
 
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Old Jun 2, 2020 | 12:46 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by brownie4412
Going over this again because we're putting a 110 kit on my buddies street bob this weekend.... I gotta ask because I don't remember and you didn't mention it. Did the rings come gapped and squared? If that s how they come out of the box Monty is gonna be pissed I had him buy a $70 tool for this lol
what do you mean? Dunno if I’m having a brain fart or what but 13 years as a tech and the phrase “gapped and squared” isn’t ringing a bell lol.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2020 | 12:57 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Nickd2689
what do you mean? Dunno if I’m having a brain fart or what but 13 years as a tech and the phrase “gapped and squared” isn’t ringing a bell lol.
lol I have a small tendency to get “neckish” during technical conversations. Sorry about that hahaha. What I’m talking about is piston ring gap, and squaring the two end of the ring to each other.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2020 | 01:42 PM
  #87  
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Default Ring gap

Originally Posted by brownie4412
lol I have a small tendency to get “neckish” during technical conversations. Sorry about that hahaha. What I’m talking about is piston ring gap, and squaring the two end of the ring to each other.
ring gap
Yes, always check ring GAP. Now adaysthey come in spec but I still have found a few that need it. Also each piston has aarrow showing front to back. Make sure they are facing forward. Use a rag to cover the cases below the pistons while installing cerca clips. They tend to be squirrely.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2020 | 01:51 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by brownie4412
lol I have a small tendency to get “neckish” during technical conversations. Sorry about that hahaha. What I’m talking about is piston ring gap, and squaring the two end of the ring to each other.
no worries lol. Figured that was the only thing you coulda been talkin about but wanted to be sure. Always check the gap and make sure they are placed according to the service manual. I was lucky enough that the ones that came with the kit were within spec.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 04:58 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Nickd2689
no worries lol. Figured that was the only thing you coulda been talkin about but wanted to be sure. Always check the gap and make sure they are placed according to the service manual. I was lucky enough that the ones that came with the kit were within spec.
Yeah i figured you had checked it, your ability was never in question. I just know some builders will gap your rings for you while your cylinders are setup on the torque plates. I was just curious to see if the moco had reached that level of convenience yet. It's good to hear that they were spot on out of the box!
 
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