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07 Ultra wont start hot

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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 01:13 PM
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Default 07 Ultra wont start hot

07 EGUC.......starts fine cold.......sometimes starts hot with no problems........sometimes hot wont start hot.

Powervision installed........tried starting with attached and without.....no dif.

Pulled plugs (only about 3k miles on them, NGK Irridium) gap was like .10???
I know I gapped them correctly when installed.......regapped to .40.
Ran it for about 50 miles........stopped for a quick phone check........started no problem.......drove about another 20 miles.....stopped for food.......wont start!!

NO codes thrown.

turns over fine (new 600CCA battery) seems like no spark when spinning......

Let it cool for 20 mins and starts fine.

Checked plugs.......they're fine.

Coil?
Wires?

Anyone??
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 11:18 AM
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Gotta know the history of the issue before help can be offered.
Was the engine running great and starting without issue, then something occurred that started this condition.

Or did this issue develop over time?

Powervision isn't a product that disconnecting the little monitor does anything for running...its just a monitor.
Maybe you have a PowerCommander, which does attach to the bike?

An intake leak can cause hard starting. With the engine started, warmed, and idling spray WD40 with the little tube attached, right at the intake manifold flanges that boort to the heads. If idle speed changes (up or down) you have a leak.
Fouled spark plugs from overly rich startup fueling can cause starting issues.
Mo info please...
Bob
 
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Old Feb 26, 2017 | 11:59 AM
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Thanks Bob.....

NO powercommander.......only Powervision

Started over time.......can't pinpoint when or why it started...

When cold, starts great.......even when hot sometimes it starts great......

Haven't done anything to the intake to maybe think that's it.....

Cleaned the IAC with cleaner.....

Smell gas while it's cranking....so it's not starved.

Checked the CKP..(951 ohms).....works fine as evidence of showing RPMS on tach while cranking.......

What really has me worried is why the plug gap closed up over time......I gap them to .40........and 3k miles later the gap is about .10?

It's the proper size plug.

about 40k miles on it now......gonna take off coil and check it......change wires.....and possibly plugs.....

I did have a code show awhile ago (last week) u 10 16...loss of ECM serial data.

Could that have anything to do with it?
Gonna tear into and clean up all the contacts on ignition.

Already DCed ECM, cleaned with electronic cleaner and dielectric grease.(Batt DC'ed as well)

Anything else Im missing?
 

Last edited by MURPHCC1; Feb 26, 2017 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 08:56 PM
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The only way the gap can close is if something mechanically closed it.
Both plugs? If both somethings definetly wrong. If it's just 1 it's possible something went through the intake into the combustion chamber.
He very first thing you need to determine,is what closed the gap(s).
Compression test will quickly point out a bent valve (whatever closed the gap went out the exhaust).
Loss of serial data is nothing to worry about.
You may have a bad engine temp sensor causing the engine to run rich virtually everywhere but first the spark plug gap is the major issue.
What spark plugs are in the engine?
Have you looked at them? If so what color?
Mo info,
Bob
 
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 09:58 AM
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The plug gap concerns me too Bob.........after a 150 miles took them out and look good and gapped as I left them at .40.(NOT closed like they were, gonna keep an eye on that!)



The plugs are NGK Iridium DCPR7EIX, which are a replacement for the stock plugs.

Gonna pick up a spark checker and hook it up next time it won't start.
Could be awhile as the Wx isn't so good right now in NE.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2017 | 10:48 AM
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Save some real $$ and just buy stock HD plugs and wires as they provide the best performance including the ION knock sensing accuracy.
No high performance plugs or wires produce ANYTHING BUT CONFUSION to the ION system and how it is modeled.
Bob
 
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 06:34 PM
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well.......might have found something in the PV1 software that may be a problem.....
A map was sent to me by a reputable person.........went through all the parameters.....found a few deficiencies.......

IAC Crank Steps.....value was 0 in the old map that he sent me........

value is 110 in a map from Powervision and in my original map.....

IAC CRANK TO RUN..........0 in all temp ranges in old map he sent me.......

in powervision and original maps value ranges from 45 to 20 depending on temp........

So far in a 100 mile run in the cold.......had no problem with starting when hot with newer map.......will be checking as riding weather permits.........but I tend to think that the omission of these two value parameters were messing with my hot starting problems.....
 

Last edited by MURPHCC1; Mar 8, 2017 at 07:27 AM.
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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 02:59 PM
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I would almost guarantee you the map was the problem if not for the plug gap closing. Like said above, put the HD plugs back in for your knock protection.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 10:23 AM
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When my battery was bad, bike would not start hot at all. I would have to wait 15 minutes or so
 
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 06:08 PM
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Thanks Roussfam.......just installed a new 600cca battery......no joy......and I still have the old one that is only 3 years old....same thing

Gozzie......talked to Jamie at Fuelmoto......he said those (0) values would default to original values.......says a none issue

Gonna check fuel system now(filter, injectors).....put in original wires and plugs......original tune and go from there...

Thanks to all!!
 
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