When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I can move the drive chain on my 75 FXE laterally close to 3 inches - would seem to be an indication that a new chain is in order.
My only experience is with standard plain-jane chains, clean and oil occasionally and keep the tension right.
'O' ring chains seem to hold the promise of not requiring external oil application, so the rear rim would stay clean longer and it would seem that no grit in the chain internals would mean longer life and less stretch.
And X-ring chains promise the same but with less friction due to the shape of the seal.
Anyone had experience with a sealed drive chain? I'm wondering what reality is vs. the marketing claims.
Big believer in o-ring chain...I get the nickel plated ones..kinda look like chrome.
I run one with sprocket -brake...I never put any lube on it...wipe it down once in a while with WD-40 to clean it...after the initial stretch when you first install it...I never adjust it...chain adjustment used to be a constant thing...I would never run a "regular" chain again.
Last edited by Tom84FXST; Nov 11, 2017 at 06:35 PM.
When I originally switched over to chain I went with an RK chain. Every 2-300 miles I had to adjust out the slack. Never stopped stretching. I also used a Zippers sprocket front and rear. The rear sprocket was made out of hard aluminum (I forget the grade) well that didn't hold up either. Not even 2000 miles later I had to replace both... Chain was ruined and so was the rear sprocket. Check it out..
So if your motor has some serious power get a steel sprocket. I believe the second chain I got was a D.I.D. chain. I'm out of town right now but when I get home I'll look for the receipt to id the chain... So far it's lasting and only had to adjust it once and no noise. O-ring is the way to go. Just get good chain wax and at every 500 miles, apply it hot (after a ride)... And don't get a Gold chain, it will leave a lot of gold dust on your rims...... Don't over wax the chain either because that **** is hard to clean off of the swing arm, rims and chassis...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Nov 12, 2017 at 05:44 AM.
Higher end O-ring chain the only way to go I used tsubaki when I ran chains, diamond and RK had no life. Sprocket wise you get what you pay for cheap ones you will be eating them quicker, skip the aluminium and buy US made if you can still find them. Pricey but they will last much longer, usually 2 or 3 chain to one sprocket set was the average life I'd get on them.
The original shovel design drops a little oil on the chain, right? So when you switch to an O- or X-ring chain, do you simply plug off that oil drip line?
You can but any chain still needs the occasional lubing, help extend the life quit a bit. I blocked the auto feed and just used a good chain lube regular.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
'O' and X-Ring Chains - Worth The $$???
