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I want to rebuild the engine, problem is the machine shop I use for my engine machining doesn't have a fixture to do a single cylinder. They do amazing work but only race car and boat stuff so I feel my best approach would be to just buy a kit and then I might as well go larger. My original plan was to rebuild it stock but finding someone up here I trust to true the flywheels and make the bores straight is a dead end.
Thoughts on the S&S 93" siidewinder kit?
Last edited by hellonewman; Jan 15, 2018 at 07:24 PM.
I don't think your gonna find a better after market kit than the S&S. 93" is a lot of shovel... If you're going to go that route I would also bring the compression up to a minimum of 9.0:1. It'll open up the door for a lot more cams. Where in Canada are you?
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Jan 15, 2018 at 06:51 PM.
I don't think your gonna find a better after market kit than the S&S. 93" is a lot of shovel... If you're going to go that route I would also bring the compression up to a minimum of 9.0:1. It'll open up the door for a lot more cams. Where in Canada are you?
The kit says 9:1 and it'll be electric start (kicker will be there too).
That's cool... You'll like the big cubes @ 9:1. I checked on Google maps and your only 4.5 hours from from Hillside in Munnsville. I do know Scott quite well and his ability to build shovels. His race bike was a shovel.. you might want to give him a call..
With the forks, oil tank and starter gone its giving me different ideas. Im debating going kicker only.....debating.....I like the open space that I can use for just an oil tank thats centered in the frame vs all that extra weight and clutter. Not sure what Ill do yet but if I do run a starter Ill have to do something with the tank position and battery location.
I have my 2011 RKC wheels left over and they're perfect. As much as a 5" rear rim would look cool Ill resist trying to make it work and stay 3" front and rear so Ill have to buy another rim. If I run a road king wheel on the front Im not convinced Ill like the twin rotor look, wont want to just take one off giving me the road king wheel missing a rotor look either.
Back to the tank while I think over my front end / starter and rim options.
I had a lofty goal thinking I could make a simple wooden buck and hand form a compound curve for the tank tunnel and floor as one piece and weld the perimeter. That thought soon changed into cut and weld 3 pieces together. So the tunnel is just about done, the floor will be easy.
the original starter is .09 amps - we replace with a 1.7 amp unit that make a big difference in cranking speed - and batterys now can give you 500 CC amps
the original starter is .09 amps - we replace with a 1.7 amp unit that make a big difference in cranking speed - and batterys now can give you 500 CC amps
If I go electric start (likely) Ill be buying the BDL kit that comes with a modern starter.
Minor carb interference......but we knew this. Not concerned yet, need to get the seat figured out then the pegs first.
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