SE Compensator Alignement with Clutch Basket

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Mar 29, 2018 | 05:24 PM

Campy Roadie

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From: SW Ohio

SE Compensator Alignement with Clutch Basket

I had a re-build of my stock 96" engine (roller left side bearing) done with an S&S crank and Timken conversion. I didn't really think about alignment when I put everything back together because the comp had been on the bike. But, after about a thousand miles I'm thinking the noise in the primary means the two sprockets aren't in line with each other. I currently have the outer primary off and am preparing the machine for a final dyno tune on Tuesday.

I'm going to measure tomorrow and use the edge of the inner primary as a reference like the Baker video suggests. I've also used a couple of the long bolts and spacers from the outer/inner primary to shore up the inner to the engine case (in the front) so I get a good measurement. I know the comp and clutch basket need to be torqued down so I'll use the primary chain and a locking bar (without the primary adjuster installed) then slip the chain off and do the measurement.

So here's the question. I know I'll need to add shim(s) if the comp is inboard of the clutch basket teeth to bring them inline (within a 30 thousandths tolerance). What if the the comp is outboard of the clutch basket? Where/what do I take material off of? I have access to a machine shop and someone who knows what they're doing, I just need to be able to tell him what I need so he can make it happen.

The comp is a newer SE version with the thrust washer bearing.

Thanks in advance.

4cacranks

Last edited by Campy Roadie; Mar 29, 2018 at 05:26 PM.

Mar 29, 2018 | 05:36 PM

Max Headflow

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From: poway

If you have clearance between the stator windings and the rotor, whack some off the motor spacer.

Mar 29, 2018 | 06:39 PM

Campy Roadie

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From: SW Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Headflow

If you have clearance between the stator windings and the rotor, whack some off the motor spacer.

Max,

Are we talking about taking material off the back of this? Also, if it needs shimmed out, does the spacer go between this and the rotor?

Mar 29, 2018 | 07:36 PM

Max Headflow

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From: poway

Not that that part. The spacer that goes between the rotor and crank bearing. It under the rotor.. You need to check to make sure that the rotor still clears the stator windings..

Mar 29, 2018 | 07:41 PM

Max Headflow

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From: poway

Mar 29, 2018 | 08:46 PM

Campy Roadie

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From: SW Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Headflow

Got it. You're a lifesaver. Is that where a bigger spacer (or a shim) would go to move it outboard? Also, does how I'm going to tighten it down and measure the alignment sound good?

Last edited by Campy Roadie; Mar 29, 2018 at 09:22 PM.

Mar 29, 2018 | 09:59 PM

Max Headflow

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From: poway

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomadmax

Got it. You're a lifesaver. Is that where a bigger spacer (or a shim) would go to move it outboard? Also, does how I'm going to tighten it down and measure the alignment sound good?

Yes That is where the spacer would go unless it pulls the magnets too far away from the stator windings but you really have a wide area on the rotor magnets..

I'm lazy and would torque to spec but do about 1/4 spec.. Initial check could simply with the stack-up on the crank and the clutch hub rattled tight or even tightened as best you can do by hand. I've not done the alignment method you are trying. I used a straight edge clamped (gently as not to flex) to the basket sprocket. Easiest if the inner primary is off. (Was doing seals at the same time.)