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General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
Any tips or gotcha's to look out for? Never replaced brake fluid before but watched a ton of video's on how to do it and although it does not appear to be very difficult I'm still very hesitant to try it because.....it's like your brakes man....Ugh
Big difference in ABS and non. Big difference in requirement of either glycol DOT 3 or a slightly higher boiling point of DOT 4 that are OK together. And the older DOT 5 system.
You don't mention what you are doing.
Do the finial test mention at the end of this first also.
Protect paint. Replace majority in master first and leave cover loose.. Vacuum it out with a hand Vacuum pump at caliper.
Pumping an old master can bottom cupseal into any corrosion at bottom of travel. That will destroy cup.
Keep vaccum low since it can pull air under the master cup seal lip from back side. Pressure is what seals it down.
ABS needs fired to refresh. Doubt that little bit into new hurts anything. Be careful doing that. There ways to do that the old fashion way.
When done. Reset diaphram gasket flat. That's used since bikes use a sealed system.
Don't overtighten cover. Snug till you see slight bulge in gasket..
Now hold a firm brake for one good minute. Should see and fill no drop.
If you do, rebuild if there is a complete kit with cylinder and piston or replace master.
That finial check also should be done before new fluid.
The Harbour Freight vacuum pump comes with a bleed container.
It's too small. I made mine by drilling a canning lid for two pieces of vacuum hose.
One piece just thru lid goes to pump. The other to the bottom goes on caliper bleeder.
I use a pint jar.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Yesterday at 10:27 AM.
Also some of us have made the job easier by using speed bleeders. Had them on my 2010 Ultra Classic and even though it was ABS (I bought a scan tool to fire the ABS valves properly) the job didn't take long at all.
Check your owner's manual to make sure you get the correct fluid.
Use 3/16 silicone tubing instead of nylon hose, the nylon is a pita keeps popping off the nipple on the bleeder.
Thank you! Yeah I was going to try on my 2002 Fatboy - No ABS
Same bike.
DOT 5 - might be tough to find so you may have to try a few places. Its pricy. 12 oz bottle - buy two just in case you mess up and get air in the system.
Do not let air get into the reservoir. Don't run it down too low. Saves a ton of aggravation trying to get the air out. 2 bottles worth.
Pretty easy if you do not get air in the system. Tube on nipple. Pump, release into container, repeat. You will se hen the new fluid is through the system.
Clean the cap seals very good with brake cleaner and reinstall.
The old DOT 5 will be gold or off brown color. The new DOT 5 will be a purple color. I just did mine F& R, on my '02 Fatboy a while back. Good luck. It's not a hard job. You can do it.
Same bike.
DOT 5 - might be tough to find so you may have to try a few places. Its pricy. 12 oz bottle - buy two just in case you mess up and get air in the system.
Do not let air get into the reservoir. Don't run it down too low. Saves a ton of aggravation trying to get the air out. 2 bottles worth.
Pretty easy if you do not get air in the system. Tube on nipple. Pump, release into container, repeat. You will se hen the new fluid is through the system.
Clean the cap seals very good with brake cleaner and reinstall.
The old DOT 5 will be gold or off brown color. The new DOT 5 will be a purple color. I just did mine F& R, on my '02 Fatboy a while back. Good luck. It's not a hard job. You can do it.
MarlinSpike @MarlinSpike When you use the master cylinder (post 7) to push in new fluid, before you let up on lever or pedal, do you close the caliper bleeder?
If you use the master cylinder to change the fluid, that an important detail you left out.
If you have your discharge tube in fluid, your sucking dirty fluid back in plus air leak around loose bleeder. If tube is not in fluid, your sucking a lot of air back into caliper.
Being that old and if you dont know history of bike Id consider rebuilding the caliper. Not that difficult. Recently did mine and was surprised to find some white sludge in it although I flush fluid every 2 years. Maybe previous owner didnt do the same.
Being that old and if you don’t know history of bike I’d consider rebuilding the caliper. Not that difficult. Recently did mine and was surprised to find some white sludge in it although I flush fluid every 2 years. Maybe previous owner didn’t do the same.
Harley PDF on master and caliper rebuilds requires a special silicon base grease. That's what you saw. They specifically say not to lubricate cylinder, piston and seals with only brake fluid.
Now it is a specialized grease. Not what you use external on pad back or the caliper slideing pins. May no longer be on ABS system.
Honda cars also require it. That was my first experience with it. It helps the piston seal in caliper when pressure is released, relaxes, and pulls the piston back so it let's that little spring wire pull pad off rotor.
Supposedly gives cars some fraction of a percent better MPG.
Note Some masters do not require it. See owners manual. DOT 5 system on Calipers source GE VERSILUBE #G322 L Silcon Grease AKA Piston Lube .
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Replacing brake fluid hesitation
