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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 12:39 PM
  #71  
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Lydell
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Well last Saturday a call to the dealer was met with "we can test the ignition control OFF THE BIKE". And the visit to the dealer on Tuesday was met with "we got to have it on the bike". Then I stopped at a different dealer and they said the same - got to have the bike. About the coil, I think we have determined the trouble is before the coil? Because I'm testing the connector which PLUGS INTO the coil - the middle wire (middle female "pole" of the connector) having consistent power, and only one of the outside ones having power when cranking and the other not. I'll check the pins at the ignition connector...........
Yes I still have the original stuff and have the old and new ignition and coil marked accordingly.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 01:07 PM
  #72  
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So, if the poles on the ignition and connector is all good at the ignition, HAVE WE DETERMINED that it actually is in the ignition module???? Cause the blue wire has power when cranking, and if the yellow does not, and all wires and connectors are good, IT HAS TO BE the ignition right???
 
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 03:35 PM
  #73  
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The poles on the ignition module look perfect and the female side (connector) sure look fine too.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 03:50 PM
  #74  
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HEY HERE IS SOME MORE!! Bought an in line tester just like Mister Guntoter suggested from Harbor Freight for $4.99. The front plug is getting spark, the rear plug IS NOT. Now this test of course includes the coil, which those other tests did not. But one thing to note which probably isn't important at this point is that I do not have fuel injection.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #75  
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Just to jump in here, what year exactly is your bike? In your opening thread, you said it was 14 years old. I am guessing that it is a 2000 or 2001. If so, the code testing method for error codes you are using is wrong. And also, your bike has both a crank and cam position sensor on it. To test, you need to do a jumper wire on the connection under the seat and read the engine flashes.
Try to read the codes 1st before chasing things further. Although the diagnostics on these models are limited.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2015 | 12:09 PM
  #76  
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Hello Mister Kiley. My bike is a 2000 Heritage Softail Classic, and it's not electronic fuel injected. Please explain how to do that test method you mentioned above. Thank you.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2015 | 05:06 PM
  #77  
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So I'm in my Clymer Manual studying about how to read engine codes. And I find the connector and am supposed to have a Duetch 18Ga socket connector and link up the black and green/red wire pins. Then turn on the ignition key and wait for 6 blinks then the blinks come that signify the code. Well I can see in my speedo there is a light that says ENGINE, and one that says Pursuit. Trouble is neither lights up at all when I turn the ignition switch on. So unless the ENGINE light in the speedo comes on, blinks, all that, I guess I can't read the code? I didn't even know those lights were in there till I just looked so close, cause they have never lit up. I suppose there maybe are bulbs back there that are burned out. And the saga continues. More help please. Thanks. Lydell
 
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Old Mar 29, 2015 | 10:41 PM
  #78  
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I'd look into popping the timer cover
Off and taking a look at the cam sensor. Make sure it's not burnt or messed up in anyway.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 07:28 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by kkiley
Just to jump in here, what year exactly is your bike? In your opening thread, you said it was 14 years old. I am guessing that it is a 2000 or 2001. If so, the code testing method for error codes you are using is wrong. And also, your bike has both a crank and cam position sensor on it. To test, you need to do a jumper wire on the connection under the seat and read the engine flashes.
Try to read the codes 1st before chasing things further. Although the diagnostics on these models are limited.
I think I also saw two different wiring diagrams for the coil in this thread... one being for a single fire and one for a dual fire. Do you know which type of coil he has on that bike (I have never worked on one)?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 01:50 PM
  #80  
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after 3 months of screwing around with it and all the money wasted, I think you would be better off taking it to someone qualified..

the more I read his typing style and words used, I think hes a troll..
 
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