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It sure is interesting...what would a new bolt have that an old one doesn't? They don't wear, they are the same size and pitch...why would the instructions say to toss them and put new ones in, other than the obvious....profit. There is some science here that is over my head. Is it because they have locking teeth on the head? The chrome ones I have are just chromed hex head bolts with a chrome washer, nothing more.
SDozier, do the bolts on the old sprocket look like something special? Thread forming or something?
We need Bill Nye the Science Guy on this one...lol
Bolts are designed to "stretch" when they are torqued properly. Once they stretch they lose the holding ability that that "stretch" provides.
Bill Nye doesn't seem to realize that air pressure in an object will change with temperature. That is why tires are checked when "cold".
If they'd been over torqued previously, the threads could be warped and not give a proper torque reading next use - reach the value on the torque wrench but not be tight - I've even seen bolt heads not touching yet when the wrench clicked, after some gorilla put them on previously. Old locktite left on threads can throw off the torque reading - on new bolts, too, if the holes aren't cleaned out. This business of not re-using Harley bolts bothers me, so I don't; I get good grade 8 bolts and re-use them as many times as I want, always using a torque wrench, too. If I didn't put them in first, I usually get new bolts.
whatever floats your boat.......never changed the bolts on my jap racers and some were over 200hp .....on my second NT and have yet to see a bolt failure on any bike I've owned . chase the threads , use the blue Loctite and torque to spec ......that's all .
I'm with you...four bikes and forty plus years and never a problem...
Apparently, I have saved several hundred dollars in "special" bolts over the years...LOL. Better to spend it on some Guinness...so it's not wasted...LOL.
Ride safe.
HD says one use for grade 8 bolts. Engineers in the fastener industry say three uses for grade 8 bolts. By the way all bolts stretch that is the what the torque measurement is for. The amount you stretch the bolt.
Even the 3 times is precautionary. I have always reused grade 8 bolts and never concerned myself with the numbers of times.
"Torque-to-Yield" bolts should definitely not be re-used, but these do not look like "torque-to-yield" bolts.
A "torque to yield" is not necessarily a kind of bolt, but the way it is installed...I believe newer bikes are torqued to yield...was never a problem on older bikes.
"A torque to yield fastener is mounting hardware which is torqued beyond the state of elasticity and therefore undergoes plastic transformation, causing it to become permanently elongated."
Does anyone know what the size and pitch of the sprocket bolts that are on a 2008 softail? I would like to get a bottom tap and at least clean the threads up. If you look at the chrome bolt set instructions it says to tighten them to 23 ft lbs with red loctite. Then you do the 60 degree finish torque. Does not seem like a lot of torque. Also the red would make it a lot harder to work on in the future.
Does anyone know what the size and pitch of the sprocket bolts that are on a 2008 softail? I would like to get a bottom tap and at least clean the threads up. If you look at the chrome bolt set instructions it says to tighten them to 23 ft lbs with red loctite. Then you do the 60 degree finish torque. Does not seem like a lot of torque. Also the red would make it a lot harder to work on in the future.
I've seen guys soak the whole thread length in red loctite - unnecessary, just a couple drops midway in the threads is sufficient - and I do use it on sprocket bolts. Some of the Harley bolts come with a loctite type compound on the threads, and it's a just a little circle seldom as much as 1/4" across. I seldom use a tap to clean out loctite, use either a thread chaser or a pick - sometimes a small brass gun barrel brush works good, too. Some of those bores are almost an interference fit, bolts are pretty snug going in, but after running a tap through, bolts might be a bit loose. I've seen a fair amount of metal shavings come out of some with a tap, were probably overtorqued and warped the threads a little, and the tap peeled some metal off; I'd rather have a somewhat tight to put in bolt than remove thread material - though either situation isn't desirable.
I'm with you...four bikes and forty plus years and never a problem...
Apparently, I have saved several hundred dollars in "special" bolts over the years...LOL. Better to spend it on some Guinness...so it's not wasted...LOL.
Ride safe.
I've seen it happen twice ... and both times it was a big deal before it was over. Just because it didn't happen to you doesn't mean it won't happen. Buy some bolts and do it right O.P. Geez!
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