Next couple of additions: smoked visor lens with red bulbs in the rear and wrinkle primary cover. Switching from the chrome primary makes a big difference in appearance and I really like the way it looks.

Michael

 

After more riding I found the brake cable is rubbing the tank so I will be switching brake, throttle, and idle cables when I can. Clutch has plenty of slack and will leave it for a while.

Michael

 

The bike looks awesome so far! Just curious where you found the wrinkle primary cover. On the lookout for one myself. Thanks and ride safe!

 

Thanks. I found it on ebay. Sometimes you can find them on here too for a decent deal but they usually go quick. I have a wrinkle cam cover too but am saving that to be done at the same time I swap cams.

Michael

 

I just ordered those bars. When you added them, did you need to extend the lines going through the bars? Also I'm predicting having to remove the tank to get at the writing. You wouldn't have a good resource (step by step of sorts) I could use would you? Removing the tank off my old bike I never accomplished and with a brand new one I'm more hesitant.

 

Looking good but that wallet is taking a hit!

 

I'm diggin it dude. The BO rocks!

 

The wiring running through the bars has plenty of extra slack. You might have to cut a couple zip ties on either side but there's plenty. Clutch cable is also plenty long enough. Front brake cable and throttle/idle cables have room to operate and will go full turn either direction but with bars turned all the way left the throttle and idle are out of slack. Also when turned full right those 3 cables drag on the tank a bit. So even though they work they're the bare minimum in length and I'll be swapping them later to have extra slack and keep them off the tank.

I don't have a step by step but I read through the forums and found a place where 24v stated you can reach the wires without removing the tank and then also just figured it out as I went along with using the service manual. If you remove the front and back tank bolts you can lift the tank slightly and slide it backwards. On the ignition side of your tank just watch the connected lines there and make sure you don't pull them too far when moving the tank. Once you've slid the tank back look on the neck of your frame under/in front of the tank. Your wires connect right in there on both sides. It's a tight squeeze but you should be able to manage to reach the connections and pop them loose from the rest of the wiring. Just follow your wires and find the connections to disconnect. The zip ties I mentioned earlier are also right there holding wires together and push pinned to a plastic piece running along the frame.

If you decide to do it yourself go slow and take your time. Also don't get frustrated which will probably happen on some parts. It's not the hardest job but it does take some time and effort. Saved me a lot of labor cost by doing it myself but I'm not sure I'd ever do it again just because of the stress I caused myself during it. But then again it was my first time ever swapping handlebars and I did it alone and without beer so it might go better next time.

If you have any questions during the process feel free to comment back on this or send me a PM and I'll do my best to help. I'm sure there are lots of others that would help as well and probably know more than I do.

Michael

 

Yeah the wallet is looking pretty thin at the moment. Still a handful of parts sitting in the garage to be installed that I've already purchased. And then I've also got cams and suspension planned for later so will be taking even more hits unfortunately.

Michael

 

Expensive, but worth it. Great looking bike.