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My 2013 Breakout - Lyla

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Old May 15, 2015 | 09:22 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mseymour3
The wiring running through the bars has plenty of extra slack. You might have to cut a couple zip ties on either side but there's plenty. Clutch cable is also plenty long enough. Front brake cable and throttle/idle cables have room to operate and will go full turn either direction but with bars turned all the way left the throttle and idle are out of slack. Also when turned full right those 3 cables drag on the tank a bit. So even though they work they're the bare minimum in length and I'll be swapping them later to have extra slack and keep them off the tank.

I don't have a step by step but I read through the forums and found a place where 24v stated you can reach the wires without removing the tank and then also just figured it out as I went along with using the service manual. If you remove the front and back tank bolts you can lift the tank slightly and slide it backwards. On the ignition side of your tank just watch the connected lines there and make sure you don't pull them too far when moving the tank. Once you've slid the tank back look on the neck of your frame under/in front of the tank. Your wires connect right in there on both sides. It's a tight squeeze but you should be able to manage to reach the connections and pop them loose from the rest of the wiring. Just follow your wires and find the connections to disconnect. The zip ties I mentioned earlier are also right there holding wires together and push pinned to a plastic piece running along the frame.

If you decide to do it yourself go slow and take your time. Also don't get frustrated which will probably happen on some parts. It's not the hardest job but it does take some time and effort. Saved me a lot of labor cost by doing it myself but I'm not sure I'd ever do it again just because of the stress I caused myself during it. But then again it was my first time ever swapping handlebars and I did it alone and without beer so it might go better next time.

If you have any questions during the process feel free to comment back on this or send me a PM and I'll do my best to help. I'm sure there are lots of others that would help as well and probably know more than I do.

Michael
Thanks for the insight. I swapped my last bike to acute angle z bars...so I understand the frustration. My Dyna I didn't have to move the tank because the wiring ran through the center tube and it was just a matter of pulling it through. Will check back in though as I progress.
 
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Old May 15, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by NDBadlands4-2
Expensive, but worth it. Great looking bike.
Thanks. I love it. There's still plenty to do that I either already have planned or have purchased and not installed but it's a good feeling when I look at the bike and have trouble finding other things I want to do.

Michael
 
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 01:18 PM
  #23  
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Next round of things added to the bike. Swingarm bag and Danny Gray passenger pillion to match the buttcrack solo I already had. I opted for the gel version of the passenger pillion even though my rider seat isn't gel because if she's happy I'm happy as we all know. She loves the new seat from what little testing we've done so far. For her to be completely comfortable and happy, though, I also need to get a taller sissy bar so that she can lean back and be supported. The backrest pad hits her lower back right now and doesn't do much. I also need the new sissy bar to be 3-4 inches further back to provide more room as right now she pushes me forward slightly in my seat. I have a plan for this but need to finish the current project first. Swingarm bag is Willie & Max brand. I chose it because it's smaller than most. Obviously doesn't hold as much stuff as the larger swingarm bags but I didn't want it sticking below or above the swingarm much and this one fits perfectly the way I wanted. Here's a few pictures.

Michael
 
Attached Thumbnails My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_7917.jpg   My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_8907.jpg   My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_0616.jpg  

Last edited by mseymour3; Jun 15, 2015 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 07:46 AM
  #24  
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Subscribed for the floorboards mod.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #25  
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Next small project: floorboards. Had not planned on switching to floorboards but after trying heel rests they were so comfortable I had to try. The heel rests worked great but had a couple things I did not like about them:

1. They push the footpegs even further out from the bike.
2. If you angle them downward any they scrape like crazy.
3. Only particular places you can place your foot.

So I installed floorboards to try them out. As for the problems listed above the floorboards do not stick out as far. The footpegs with heel rests installed protrude about 2.5" further from the bike than the boards do. The boards do not angle downward any. As for how much they will scrape I haven't been able to ride enough to tell yet but I believe being closer to the bike will help. I also do not believe they can be worse than the stock offset pegs with feelers. And for #3 obviously the boards allow for a huge variety of where to place your feet.

Install was actually pretty easy with only 3 bolts securing the bracket to the frame on each side. The difficult part was all the connecting pieces and even that wasn't too bad.

I recommend removing your footpegs before starting. Not required but is less in the way when you go to install.

I started with the brake side thinking it would be the easy side. For this side I left the bike on the kickstand. The brackets I purchased were from a 2012 Fatboy and had the slot on the front where the master cylinder attached. Older brackets have a fully enclosed hole and newer ones have the top of that hole removed. This makes it very easy to remove the master cylinder from the bracket when the time comes. First I removed the screw holding the brake arm. There is a washer and o-ring there as well so remember where they go. I have V&H big radius 2-2 exhaust so where the master cylinder connects to the brake arm is right against the front of my exhaust heat shield. This was the most difficult part of this side. There's very little room to work. Remove the wire pin holding the connecting pin in place and push out the connecting pin. This disconnects the brake arm from the master cylinder. You then loosen the nut on the front of the bracket and the master cylinder just lifts out while still connected to everything else. The brake arm is now free to be pulled off. Now you just have the 3 screws holding the bracket in place to remove and the bracket is off. Everything goes right back on in the opposite order it came off except you need to place the master cylinder in the bracket slot first before re-attaching the new bracket to the frame. I also used a fatboy brake arm to fit with the boards/brackets. Another issue I ran into because of the exhaust was the new bracket pushes the master cylinder towards the rear of the bike approximately 1/8". This isn't a problem except it pushed it further into my heat shield so I bent the heat shield slightly with a pair of pliers to get it out of the way. Different exhaust might not have this issue. Possibly different year brackets won't either.

For the shifter side I needed the bike off the kickstand as the kickstand is attached to the bracket I was removing. I don't have a lift or jack so I layered a wooden pallet and 2x4's on the right side of the bike under the frame and then stood the bike upright placing the weight on the boards until I could slide more under the left side. Not the fanciest way to go about it but it got the job done. Once the weight was off the kickstand the first thing was to remove the shift lever. There's one screw on the bottom holding it tight. Take that out and the shift lever slides off. There's also an o-ring and black spacer here so again remember where they go. Next loosen the 3 bolts connecting the bracket to the frame. As these are loosened you will then be able to slide the rest of the shift linkage out of the bracket. Just prop it up on your primary to be out of the way. Then remove the screws the rest of the way and the bracket is off. I reused my Breakout kickstand so next I removed it, the spring, and the bolt connecting it to the bracket and reattached them all to the new bracket. Then right back in reverse order to reinstall. I started attaching the new bracket to the frame with the 3 screws but leaving them loose. Then slide the shift linkage piece back in the hole for it in the bracket. Once this is done you can then tighten the 3 screws fully. Then reinstall your shift arm and done.

Obviously this isn't the most technical and detailed write up ever and I don't have a picture of each step but hopefully there's enough information to assist someone. It really is a very easy and self explanatory install as long as you remember the way you take things apart. I have attached a few pictures and if anyone has any questions feel free to ask and I'll do my best to help. Next is to switch my floorboards to some all black ones. The ones on there I got with the brackets.

Michael
 
Attached Thumbnails My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_8836.jpg   My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_5994.jpg   My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_0734.jpg   My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_0576.jpg   My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_6464.jpg  


Last edited by mseymour3; Jun 16, 2015 at 08:37 AM.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 08:41 AM
  #26  
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A few more pictures.

Michael
 
Attached Thumbnails My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_6779.jpg   My 2013 Breakout - Lyla-img_3532.jpg  
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 10:47 AM
  #27  
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Nice mods to the breakout. Looks very rider friendly.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 02:03 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mseymour3
A few more pictures.

Michael
Noticed there's a gap on the left side between the bars and housing. Any thoughts on what to do with it? I presume it's there to accommodate aux switch housing on baggers.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 03:05 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by matte
Noticed there's a gap on the left side between the bars and housing. Any thoughts on what to do with it? I presume it's there to accommodate aux switch housing on baggers.
The gap between housing and the point where the bars become narrower (from 1 1/4" to 1") should be equal on both sides, about 1/2".
I'm curious to see if a momentary switch housing to operate shotgun can be located there...
 
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 06:17 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Nostradamus74
The gap between housing and the point where the bars become narrower (from 1 1/4" to 1") should be equal on both sides, about 1/2".
I'm curious to see if a momentary switch housing to operate shotgun can be located there...
Not equal on both sides. On the left, there is about a 1" gap between the 1" bar and the step up to 1.5", where my right side flushes up. These bars are made for baggers, so that could be why. If you check the above pic from the left side you will see it.
 
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