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Did the trans & engine oil - started doing the primary and read somewhere that you should take the primary cover off 1st in case you have issues getting the torx bolts off. Glad I read that, the one won't come off for nothing. A couple questions I have are...
1. how to get that one bolt out that is starting to strip?
2. can I just fill through the inspection cover, and if so how do I know how much to put in?
3. for the drain plug it says to screw in to a certain measurement of the drain plug sticking out (I forget exactly) - is that correct? Won't it back out & leak? It is literally in there finger tight, doesn't seem right does it?
You do not have to take the primary cover off to change the oil. Remove the oil drain plug, drain the oil, replace the oil drain plug and tighten it back down against the washer if it has one. It has to be more than finger tight, the specs should be in inch pounds of torque. Don't have my manual right now.
Do you remember how tight it was when you took it out. I think you might be confusing the adjustment of the primary chain adjustment shoe with the drain plug.
And yes you refill through the inspection cover.
Jim
Looking at the parts manual for your bike, it shows two possible drain plug types, one is a tapered pipe plug, the other a standard threaded plug.
A standard plug (the one that uses the o ring) will have a specific torque reguirement.
The tapered plug has a clearance measurement (I`m not sure how accurate that method is, I just make sure it is snug, that`s not much help is it...?).
Because of the taper, installing it in too deep will crack the case.
Removing the derby cover from the primary before draining the lube is the smart way to go, as you are finding out.
This practice is good to keep in mind when working on any type of machine, make sure the filler cap, plug, cover etc can be removed before draining the lube.
You don`t fill through the inspection cover, you fill through the derby cover opening so that you can see when the lube is at the proper level.
Fill the primary until the level of the lube is just touching the clutch shell, with bike straight up, make a note of how much it took, and you will know exactly how much to have on hand when doing service in the future.
This is the correct level for all big twins with a wet clutch (mid `84 and later).
Underfilled is better than overfilled.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jun 16, 2015 at 11:03 AM.
I had a problem like you with one of the torx bolts on the inspection cover (though I use the derby cover to fill the tranny).
Most likely cause is your torx bit isn't the exact size - my buddy's cheap set didn't have the exact size but a better set from Home Depot did. I don't recall the number at the moment. The screws have a little loctite on them so they are tough to get started. If yours isn't quite stripped you can try getting the right bit if your bit is loose.
To fix the problem I used a slightly bigger bit and hammered it in and removed the screw, then got a new screw. If you have an impact driver this is a great use for it. Or a battery impact should do it. I was at a buddy's who started the job and didn't have these tools like I do, so a hammer got it wedged in there and I got it out with a socket and ratchet. Not a big problem. HD sells a chrome screw set if I recall, and you can get them aftermarket and Ace hardware usually has them (chrome too). I had one in my box.
You do not have to take the primary cover off to change the oil. Remove the oil drain plug, drain the oil, replace the oil drain plug and tighten it back down against the washer if it has one. It has to be more than finger tight, the specs should be in inch pounds of torque. Don't have my manual right now.
Do you remember how tight it was when you took it out. I think you might be confusing the adjustment of the primary chain adjustment shoe with the drain plug.
And yes you refill through the inspection cover.
Jim
I put the allen socket in and turned it by hand - the manual says a heath dimension that the plug needs to stick out but there isn't a torque spec. I am out of town now but read it a ton of times, just didn't seem right.
Looking at the parts manual for your bike, it shows two possible drain plug types, one is a tapered pipe plug, the other a standard threaded plug.
A standard plug (the one that uses the o ring) will have a specific torque reguirement.
The tapered plug has a clearance measurement (I`m not sure how accurate that method is, I just make sure it is snug, that`s not much help is it...?).
Because of the taper, installing it in too deep will crack the case.
Removing the derby cover from the primary before draining the lube is the smart way to go, as you are finding out.
This practice is good to keep in mind when working on any type of machine, make sure the filler cap, plug, cover etc can be removed before draining the lube.
You don`t fill through the inspection cover, you fill through the derby cover opening so that you can see when the lube is at the proper level.
Fill the primary until the level of the lube is just touching the clutch shell, with bike straight up, make a note of how much it took, and you will know exactly how much to have on hand when doing service in the future.
This is the correct level for all big twins with a wet clutch (mid `84 and later).
Underfilled is better than overfilled.
Thanks Dan, it just makes me nervous not having that plug tight....
I plan on getting the bolts out just wanted to get the fluid changed and buy some time to work on the f'd p up bolt
I had a problem like you with one of the torx bolts on the inspection cover (though I use the derby cover to fill the tranny).
Most likely cause is your torx bit isn't the exact size - my buddy's cheap set didn't have the exact size but a better set from Home Depot did. I don't recall the number at the moment. The screws have a little loctite on them so they are tough to get started. If yours isn't quite stripped you can try getting the right bit if your bit is loose.
To fix the problem I used a slightly bigger bit and hammered it in and removed the screw, then got a new screw. If you have an impact driver this is a great use for it. Or a battery impact should do it. I was at a buddy's who started the job and didn't have these tools like I do, so a hammer got it wedged in there and I got it out with a socket and ratchet. Not a big problem. HD sells a chrome screw set if I recall, and you can get them aftermarket and Ace hardware usually has them (chrome too). I had one in my box.
Thanks, it actually is the correct torx, the other ones were tough to get out but this one is starting to slip & I don't want to totally strip it out. I was also thinking about an impact...
Thanks, it actually is the correct torx, the other ones were tough to get out but this one is starting to slip & I don't want to totally strip it out. I was also thinking about an impact...
Good call. I have an old school manual impact driver (cheap at Harbor Freight) that I use for jobs like this. The battery ones can strip easier than the old school one as it will try to twist before it hammers, so I find it a good tool to have in the box.
I just swapped all three holes in my buddy's 03 for the first time since new (it's low miles) and the primary drain was definitely 27 torx, with thread tape on it. I tightened it up until it was as we used to say at the shop I worked at, "good-n-tite" (keeping it clean). It's a tiny bolt so it doesn't need much torque.
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please help with primary oil change
