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Softail Swingarm Removal Help

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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 02:24 PM
  #1  
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Default Softail Swingarm Removal Help

I am in the process of replacing my rear drive belt and am down to the swing arm bolt removal and the exhaust pipe removal. The swing arm nut seems extraordinarily tight... so I'm wondering if it is left handed thread for some reason? Anybody have any experience with this? My impact air wrench isn't breaking it loose and before I try a big long bar or ruin my frame paint with some heat, some experience would be helpful (I don't want to break the socket or pull the bike off of the jack stand).

It's stupifying to me that if I took the front end apart to replace the neck bearings (which I need to do) the only thing left connected to the frame would be the tins, oil tank, right side peg, regulator, and engine/tranny. Amazingly dumb design...

Thanks.

C#
 
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 03:21 PM
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jetmech74
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It's a right hand nut
 
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jetmech74
It's a right hand nut
OK. So now I guess I can see what I can break... man o man.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2015 | 07:28 PM
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olongapo1
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As Jetmech stated, the swing arm axle is Right Hand threads. Soak the nut with some WD40 and use a long breaker bar.

To replace the drive belt you do Not have to completely remove the swing arm axle. Just back it out enough to remove the spacer providing room to slip the belt past it. Having said that, I always take the time to remove the swing arm, inspect the bearings and apply fresh anti seize to the swing arm bearings. Additionally coat the shaft of the swing arm axle (Not the Threads) with anti seize. It is critical that during reassembly, you torque the swing arm axle nut to specs. Over-torquing the nut can cause premature bearing failure.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 07:56 AM
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From: Utah
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Originally Posted by olongapo1
As Jetmech stated, the swing arm axle is Right Hand threads. Soak the nut with some WD40 and use a long breaker bar.

To replace the drive belt you do Not have to completely remove the swing arm axle. Just back it out enough to remove the spacer providing room to slip the belt past it. Having said that, I always take the time to remove the swing arm, inspect the bearings and apply fresh anti seize to the swing arm bearings. Additionally coat the shaft of the swing arm axle (Not the Threads) with anti seize. It is critical that during reassembly, you torque the swing arm axle nut to specs. Over-torquing the nut can cause premature bearing failure.
Mine is an '06 NightTrain which has large spacers... a curse and a blessing. I was able to get to the worst starter bolt more easily by removing the splash guard and electrical panel since HD cobbed together a way to get a 200mm tire on the back of a bike designed for a 180mm tire. My pipes will not allow the bolt to come out far enough to get the belt through because the spacers remain in place unless I remove the exhaust. Since the belt on this cobbed together design is 1" (the narrowest of all HD's) my belt failed sooner than the standard. (85k vs. 100k).
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 08:24 AM
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I recently had to remove my swingarm too since I broke a shock bolt. A 1/2 drive standard breaker bar did it for me, I didn't even have to soak it. Mine is an 07 Night Train and I also had to remove the exhaust to get the bolt out.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron01
I recently had to remove my swingarm too since I broke a shock bolt. A 1/2 drive standard breaker bar did it for me, I didn't even have to soak it. Mine is an 07 Night Train and I also had to remove the exhaust to get the bolt out.
Thanks. I got it off with a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe extension. No way I could have done it without the pipe extension... and I weigh 250.
 
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