Engine Build
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 604
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gettie up and go
Go for the 98" with supporting head work, cam, carb, and pipes. You'll need a little stiffer spring in the clutch to. While they are doing the heads put in some manual compression releases to save on starters, sprag clutch, and batterys. Lots of dyno sheets showing teens with this setup. My 02 with its 95 SE setup made 105hp/101 tq but the 98 wasn't on the scene yet. My current 011 Fatboy ended up being a 124 that was talked about because the 96 was such a pooch even with intake, cams, pipes. etc after the 02 95".
I did the assembly work on the 124 other than boring the cases, Timken bearing, and heads. With everything upstream and down I was into it closer to 10k. I now have a $12k bike with about $28k in it but didn't build it to sell thank heavens. The 98" would be much more cost effective at about $3k and quite an upgrade in power if your crank is up to par.
I did the assembly work on the 124 other than boring the cases, Timken bearing, and heads. With everything upstream and down I was into it closer to 10k. I now have a $12k bike with about $28k in it but didn't build it to sell thank heavens. The 98" would be much more cost effective at about $3k and quite an upgrade in power if your crank is up to par.
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