Harley fishtails when breaking

I'm kidding. You're probably not gonna like what I'm going to tell you but if your motorcycle tries to switch ends when you apply the brakes it's probably you. The motorcycle you have posted isn't an uncommon model. There are many of them on the road today that don't "fishtail" when stopping. My guess is you're a little heavy with your right foot.
Try these two things:
One, apply the front brake first ever so slightly before the rear.
Two, position your foot on the rear brake pedal so that only the edge of your foot is applying the rear brake. IE take away some leverage until you learn to feel what this particular bike is doing.

I'm kidding. You're probably not gonna like what I'm going to tell you but if your motorcycle tries to switch ends when you apply the brakes it's probably you. The motorcycle you have posted isn't an uncommon model. There are many of them on the road today that don't "fishtail" when stopping. My guess is you're a little heavy with your right foot.
Try these two things:
One, apply the front brake first ever so slightly before the rear.
Two, position your foot on the rear brake pedal so that only the edge of your foot is applying the rear brake. IE take away some leverage until you learn to feel what this particular bike is doing.
One more thing to add, may or may not be helpful. When I first got my Breakout I had the same issue. If I had to stop somewhat quickly using the front brake, bike would get religion with the back tire skipping or sliding under any sudden braking maneuver - even as low as 35mph. and with barely putting any force on the rear brake. scary ****. and this is a new bike.
I'm an ex track rider both on and off road, and been riding since I was 15, first street vehicle was a bike. I've had 20+ bikes since then all types. Correct braking technique is first nature for me like taking a breath. I'm not sayin' this to brag or anything just stating my riding experience for sake of offering advice.
So I had to conclude something is up with the bike, and this is all stuff that can be experienced with a track bike not set up properly (although under much more extreme circumstances). I have never experienced this with a new stock motorcycle and tame normal street riding.
The short of it is, the front fork suspension was too weak and the bike would immediately dive down on braking, transferring majority of the bike weight forward and off the rear wheel. the rear suspension has poor rebound control and lets the bike weight transfer up and forward. the stock Dunlop tires have very poor grip hot or cold. these three things all contributed to the squirrely situation.
I installed a set of Race Tech single rate springs and drop in set of Ricor dampers. Switched tires to Pirelli Night Dragon (Metzler and others are good too). installed a set of progressive rear shocks (not real good but better than stock).
That completely eliminated the problem. Gone for good. I can grab a hand and foot full of brakes at 60 and bike settles right in and stops on a dime.
point is - it's not always the rider. bike suspension and tires play a huge factor in maintaining tire / road surface adhesion especially in heavier braking situations.
New tires would be a good start- tires get hard and dry out with age. check suspension especially front that it is not too washy / diving on you.
Last edited by LA_Dog; Feb 14, 2016 at 06:13 PM.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
When my wife first got her 2012 Heritage, within 1K miles, she'd get over 45mph and it would start wiggling. Braking, too. We thought it was a bad frame or bad tires or something... took it in and, loose spokes. They said almost every single one of them were loose.
Now, you have an older bike, but really you don't know how often or when the last time the spokes were checked. Here's a quick at-home check... lift up the bike and with a metal wrench or screwdriver or something, tap on each spoke on the rear wheel (front too). It should have a "ting" to it. If it has more of a thud, then it's loose. You don't know how they were treated with the previous owner, so it's probably a good idea to take it in at that point and have them tighten and possible true it. I have a spoke wrench now so I can check them myself often enough to not have to take it in and get charged for a 1/4 turn on a spoke here and there. Eventually (say, 50K miles) I should probably take it in and have it professionally done.
Just a thought, but something to check before you go throwing money at a new tire.
Last edited by spydyr; Feb 15, 2016 at 08:04 AM.
Lastly can ABS breaks be installed on this bike if that would be the answer to the problem?
Thank you in advance
I want to add that I had the forks polished. In order to do so the mechanic had to remove the caliper and wheel. Is there something he may have done incorrectly when he reinstalled the caliper?
Last edited by ultra_classic; Feb 15, 2016 at 08:22 AM. Reason: add GVW







