Exhaust for torque
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Tourer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 403
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From: sanford nc
Exhaust for torque
I have a 2016 heritage with the se cone style air filter and rush slip on mufflers.its tuned with a fp3 and runs great but like everyone else I want a little more mid range torque.would a 2 into 1 exhaust or any other style make enough differance to warrant a change.only interested in the 1500 to 4000 rpm range.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 3,185
Likes: 189
From: 90210
Change your belt pulleys to 30t front, 68t rear. that is the most significant change you can make to the bike in terms of low and mid range performance, and will provide additional benefit if you do cams later. by going 30/68 you'll be adding almost 10% more TQ at the rear wheel. you'll get the biggest benefit in 1st-4th gears and in 6th you'll actually be able to pass a car without downshifting. this works so well because all bikes 2007 and newer come with overly tall belt pulley gearing to meet epa standards.
Also if you are running the stock tuning map then your spark advance is purposefully de-tuned in the off-idle, off the line, and low rpm roll on areas. Again, for epa reasons. [edit] I see you have the fp3- good call- but not sure what it can do with helping a bit on the spark timing.
hope it helps-
Also if you are running the stock tuning map then your spark advance is purposefully de-tuned in the off-idle, off the line, and low rpm roll on areas. Again, for epa reasons. [edit] I see you have the fp3- good call- but not sure what it can do with helping a bit on the spark timing.
hope it helps-
Last edited by LA_Dog; Apr 2, 2016 at 09:47 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,960
Likes: 244
From: Triune, TN
Change your belt pulleys to 30t front, 68t rear. that is the most significant change you can make to the bike in terms of low and mid range performance, and will provide additional benefit if you do cams later. by going 30/68 you'll be adding almost 10% more TQ at the rear wheel. you'll get the biggest benefit in 1st-4th gears and in 6th you'll actually be able to pass a car without downshifting. this works so well because all bikes 2007 and newer come with overly tall belt pulley gearing to meet epa standards.
Also if you are running the stock tuning map then your spark advance is purposefully de-tuned in the off-idle, off the line, and low rpm roll on areas. Again, for epa reasons. [edit] I see you have the fp3- good call- but not sure what it can do with helping a bit on the spark timing.
hope it helps-
Also if you are running the stock tuning map then your spark advance is purposefully de-tuned in the off-idle, off the line, and low rpm roll on areas. Again, for epa reasons. [edit] I see you have the fp3- good call- but not sure what it can do with helping a bit on the spark timing.
hope it helps-
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1,960
Likes: 244
From: Triune, TN
Stock belt will work for 32/68 and 30/68. There is a sticky on that topic at the top of the Softail forum. I run a 32/68 with stock belt and am happy. Might go to 30/68 next winter.
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Tourer
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From: sanford nc
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: 90210
Thanks FLS103 - you got a "taste" with the 3% TQ increase on the 68t rear. you're really gonna freak when you do the 30t front for the full 10%. but of course that is the most expensive part of the upgrade at $350 in labor avg and $67 or so for the 30t pulley.
JMHO after researching and working with this specific upgrade for some time now, bang for buck the 30/68 provides the best value at just under a grand vs. a drop in cam or exhaust. of course you'll want to do all three, but just saying dollar wise and immediate return, the gear ratio improvement is the winner- but you have to go at least 6% before you really feel it, which is why 30/68 at 10% is pretty solid. it's so good, you may not even want to do cams afterwards. not kidding. I have andrews 57h cams sitting here waiting to go in and I'm frankly in no rush- the bike rips it as it is.
gpp- There is a member here, JimG (you'll see his posts in the drive ratio upgrade thread) with a SE stage 4 kit on his Breakout, and he just did 30/70 pulleys (13% TQ increase to wheel), even he was impressed with the big immediate improvement simply by changing the pulleys. and he's still getting over 40mpg in town. anyway give him a PM for his impressions since he just did it. And yes no problem with the stock belt at all, even going to 30/70.
JMHO after researching and working with this specific upgrade for some time now, bang for buck the 30/68 provides the best value at just under a grand vs. a drop in cam or exhaust. of course you'll want to do all three, but just saying dollar wise and immediate return, the gear ratio improvement is the winner- but you have to go at least 6% before you really feel it, which is why 30/68 at 10% is pretty solid. it's so good, you may not even want to do cams afterwards. not kidding. I have andrews 57h cams sitting here waiting to go in and I'm frankly in no rush- the bike rips it as it is.
gpp- There is a member here, JimG (you'll see his posts in the drive ratio upgrade thread) with a SE stage 4 kit on his Breakout, and he just did 30/70 pulleys (13% TQ increase to wheel), even he was impressed with the big immediate improvement simply by changing the pulleys. and he's still getting over 40mpg in town. anyway give him a PM for his impressions since he just did it. And yes no problem with the stock belt at all, even going to 30/70.
Last edited by LA_Dog; Apr 2, 2016 at 08:59 PM.