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Oooops please need help on wheels!!!!

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Old Jun 18, 2017 | 11:33 AM
  #11  
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Man some of you guys sure go at this the hard way, to use a 25mm axle with a 3/4" wheel you leave the wheel alone and have the axle spun down to 3/4" with a sleeve bushing & spacer for the non clamp fork leg side.

Hung a lot of 2000 & later frontends on older bikes keeping the 3/4" bearing wheels.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2017 | 08:41 PM
  #12  
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I don't think it's that easy twisted....to get a 25 mm axle to go thru the 3/4 bearing the whole thing would have to be turned down, including the threaded part....then it would be too skinny for the swing arm slot...I guess you could fill it in with material/weld. this is just a guess but I did see a thread where someone had to weld their swing arm to use a 3/4 axle, I don't recall if it was a softail or not.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2017 | 11:36 PM
  #13  
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I guess Twisted is talking about adapting the other way around.. you have a bike with a 3/4 axle... and you want to install a wheel with 25mm bearing.. yeah!. easily done with with a wheel bearing adapter like this one... no mystery here:

http://vulcanworks.net/store/Wheel-B...mm-to-3-4.html

However, the Original Post by Yazoom is asking to adapt a 3/4 wheel to a 25mm axle.. anybody reading this post will have to refer to my first post with the Axle/bearing diagrams to understand what it takes to do it properly.. a mistake in adapting wheels/axles/bearings can cause bearings to seize.. you can imagine the consequences.. don't take this advice lightly... you better know exactly what the heck you are doing!!!!

langWilliams.. an axle should not be turned down as axle as usually "surface hardened" if it is turned down.. then the "Hardened" surface is removed.. leaving a weakened axle... big no-no.. in my opinion.. if somebody really, really, really wants to use a 3/4 axle.. then the better thing to do (although perhaps not the right thing to do) is to adapt the motorcycle to use original 3/4 axles.. (the next comment is not being directed at anybody in this thread, it is rather a general comment) countless engineers worldwide design, stress test and choose the proper metal alloys to produce a properly engineered axle.. there was a reason HD went from 3/4 to a thicker 25mm axle..

I hope this helps and happy riding!
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Last edited by joebotics; Jun 18, 2017 at 11:47 PM.
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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 07:10 AM
  #14  
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[QUOTE=joebotics;15528722]Man... that won't be easy... but it is not impossible,


Name:  Inner%20hub%20comparison_zpsqhb2erhj.png
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As you can see the distance between the "inner hub walls" is different between the 3.4' 'and 25mm wheels. one VERY important detail is that the length of inner hub spacer is EXACTLY the same as the distance between both inner hub walls.. this is important because the bearings MUST seat flushed against both the inner wall and the inner hub spacer, otherwise it will generate pressure inside the bearing causing it to fail and seize while you are riding.. a potentially fatal event.

I think you are mistaken there. The spacer should be just a few thousandths of an inch longer then the width of the of the hub. The spacer is sized to compress the inner bearing races against the spacer. That's why you always install the brake side bearing first, because that distance should never change in relation to the caliper. Then you install the non brake side. When you install that bearing, the inner races are compressed against the spacer slightly in order to prevent the inner race from spinning on the axle. The outer race is the only part, aside from the bearings, that should rotate in relation to the axle. Without that pinch, the inner race has the potential to spin on the axle.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2021 | 07:37 AM
  #15  
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Default Inner bearing spacer.

Hi guys
I'm going the other way, I have a 06 Nightrain an putting a new Breakout front wheel in.
on the diagram you showed the measurements for the single bearing inner spacer. Did anyone get the measurements, I got it to 128mm, just want to check. Measured with vernier gauges.
cheers
 
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