I just changed the tires on my 2014 Softail Slim. During the removal of the rear wheel, I noticed the rear brake pads needed to be changed. Bike has 15K miles and this is the first tire/brake pad replacement.


All went well with the wheel removal, new tire and rear pads install or so I thought. Today I rode the bike to work, 6-miles all residential < 35 mph roads (first ride since new tires). I could tell rear pads were dragging by the time I got to work. Rear rotor was HOT!


I rode home nice and easy and did not use rear brakes. Rotor was still hot, 250 F according to my infrared thermometer. I put the bike up on my lift and checked the drag on the rear wheel. Too much drag in my opinion, but this is first rear wheel/rear pad removal for me so no comparison (other bike in signature is like comparing apples and watermelons).


I tried the easiest things first - opened master cylinder and suctioned out some fluid. Opened bleeder and removed some fluid from caliper. Took bike for short spin around the neighborhood and came back with 254 F rear rotor (78 F front rotor and I was using both brakes).


Put bike back on lift, removed upper muffler and removed caliper. I checked everything was clean. Worked pistons in/out with brake pedal and hands. Cleaned pistons with break cleaner and tooth brush (even though they looked clean). I cannot find anything wrong but no matter what I do, the drag is still there. I put things back together and tested the wheel drag 3 times and each time it was just as high as before I started today. I am confident if I ride bike on street, the pads will drag and the rotor will get very hot.


I have a few questions as I found the HD service manual near useless for brake pad replacement (see picture 1, #2 is not metric as it says, its 12-point 1/4" and # 3 is a Torx). Not only did the fasteners not match what is on my bike, but there was no mention at all about removing the muffler(s).


1) Those that have replaced rear pads (or replaced tire for that matter), did you remove the upper muffler only or both and the mount? Removing both and the mount would be required if one were to remove the pin on which the caliper rotates and floats on (#3 on picture 1). I only removed the upper and rotated the caliper towards the front of the bike to get it off and the pads out.


2) How do you get the pads back in? Do you place the pads into the base where the torque clip (see picture 2) sits and rotate the caliper into place?


3) Could the problem be the torque clip, the plastic bushing on #3 in picture 1 or the anti-rattle clip?


I do not have much experience with HD brakes but 40+ years with cars and other bikes. I am stumped but determined to find a solution.


Thanks for your help in advance!


Rad

 

You might want to check the anti-rattle clip...I had same problem with my Rocker after changing the rear pads, the rotor was getting too hot to touch. It turned out I had tweaked/bent the anti-rattle clip. It looked fine at first glance, but was tweaked just enough to hold up the pad and cause the problem. I'm not sure of the temps, but the rear rotors on both my bikes do get quite a bit hotter then the fronts, (I think because they don't get the same air flow), but again, not too hot to touch.

 

So how are others changing their rear brake pads? Do you pull off exhaust and hanger? Swing caliper out of the way and start with pads in the torque clip?

Thanks!

Rad

 

Thanks Rocker B. I replaced the anti-rattle clip and put things back together but no difference.

I took the caliper off and rebuilt it, swapping out the pistons, seals, and plastic cylinders that push on the actual pads (they fit inside the piston bores). Cleaned everything, sanded pads and rotors and tried again. Rear pads still drag.

I have run out of ideas???? Could I just have a bad set of pads that have some minor machining irregularity that prevents them from sliding back when the brake is released? These are OEM HD pads.

I am considering buying some EBC pads and swapping them out to test that theory.

Open to any other suggestions....

 

 

Flstcjay nope, I made sure and took pictures of left and right before I took it apart. Anyhow this bike has ABS and I don't think you could get the spacers wrong if you tried.

Thanks anyways.

 

 

Make sure you clean the Caliper bolt and the tube it rests in. Just a little **** in there is enough to keep the caliper from the small bit of side movement it needs to float. I lightly use a thin film of anti seize on both bolts.