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I'm not sure where that bolt hole is, honestly. Can you get the fender and anything else that might be in the way removed so you can get a straight shot at it? That will help immensely in the process.
Heat. No type of liquid wrench or PB Blaster affects loctite. Lot of fastners use permeant grade loctite on them. Foot peg brackets, rotors, suspension parts. Usual, a impact will bring them out with out breaking them with not using heat. Heat is hard to work with around paint and chrome. The impact does usually damage fastner head and you will need a new bolt but not this nightmare. For some reason, using a socket and breaker bar leans on them unlike the true twisting of an impact. Not having proper tools creates nightmares trying to work on Harley's
Make you a sheet metal shield to protect paint or probably powder coat. Now with a MapGas torch or even better, acellitine, (forget propane) hit the bolt red.
Now, use PB Blaster. Soak ever few hours for a day.
More then likely, you will be able to take a small chisel and tap a little slot and the use a blunt tool and a small hammer to walk stud out.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 24, 2018 at 08:54 PM.
Heat. No type of liquid wrench or PB Blaster affects loctite. Lot of fastners use permeant grade loctite on them. Foot peg brackets, rotors, suspension parts. Usual, a impact will bring them out with out breaking them with not using heat. Heat is hard to work with around paint and chrome. The impact does usually damage fastner head and you will need a new bolt but not this nightmare. For some reason, using a socket and breaker bar leans on them unlike the true twisting of an impact. Not having proper tools creates nightmares trying to work on Harley's
Make you a sheet metal shield to protect paint or probably powder coat. Now with a MapGas torch or even better, acellitine, (forget propane) hit the bolt red.
Now, use PB Blaster. Soak ever few hours for a day.
More then likely, you will be able to take a small chisel and tap a little slot and the use a blunt tool and a small hammer to walk stud out.
No locktite on that. Thread went off track without realizing it and I gave it a good hard wrench. I'll get it good and hot and letting some PB Blaster sit on it overnight.
I'm not sure where that bolt hole is, honestly. Can you get the fender and anything else that might be in the way removed so you can get a straight shot at it? That will help immensely in the process.
Bolt hole is on the back of the swingarm (its a breakout). There's a wide to narrow end where the narrow side is threaded. Maybe about 1 inch in total.
Heat. No type of liquid wrench or PB Blaster affects loctite. Lot of fastners use permeant grade loctite on them. Foot peg brackets, rotors, suspension parts. Usual, a impact will bring them out with out breaking them with not using heat. Heat is hard to work with around paint and chrome. The impact does usually damage fastner head and you will need a new bolt but not this nightmare. For some reason, using a socket and breaker bar leans on them unlike the true twisting of an impact. Not having proper tools creates nightmares trying to work on Harley's
Make you a sheet metal shield to protect paint or probably powder coat. Now with a MapGas torch or even better, acellitine, (forget propane) hit the bolt red.
Now, use PB Blaster. Soak ever few hours for a day.
More then likely, you will be able to take a small chisel and tap a little slot and the use a blunt tool and a small hammer to walk stud out.
DON"T HEAT the bolt red, it's expand it in the threads ! Heat around the bolt, and yes, try not to damage painted areas. Drill your hole first, put in your easy out, or what ever you call it, put in some form of penetrant, then heat the area around it, but not enough to make the bolt you're trying to get out, you'd be defeating the purpose of heat. Good luck.
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