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Hey folks, I'm in the process of installing new risers / bars / bushings and these poly bushings are a bit longer than the rubber stockers. Not sure if that's how they are supposed to be or do they need to be trimmed? It's got me at a standstill.
Basically the poly ones won't fit flush / near flush as the rubber ones. Can't remember if that's normal or not.
Or maybe, these black pieces aren't supposed to stay on the bushing? And then the metal sleeve is reused?
( Gonna feel silly by the answer I'm sure )
Thanks.
Okay here we go:
The first picture shows the poly bushings on the left, how I received them and of course the rubber ones on the right.
The second picture is the poly bushings with and without the black insert pieces.
Last edited by Danielc409; Dec 18, 2018 at 02:54 PM.
Regardless of the manufacturer or brand, there are different bushings for different applications (bikes). Are you sure you have the correct part no. for your bike? Risers are typically mounted to the top tree with 1/2" dia bolts so all bushings are the same internal diameter. I would assume the differences between model specific bushings have to do with the thickness of the top tree. You need to replicate the overall length of the stock rubber setup and yes you reuse the inner metal sleeve in addition to the cupped washers. Perhaps you could cut down or grind these bushings to match the original length. I have always had good luck with plain old inexpensive Drag Specialties poly bushings. Never seen the need to overspend for Harley parts or Arlen Ness, Goodentite etc.
Regardless of the manufacturer or brand, there are different bushings for different applications (bikes). Are you sure you have the correct part no. for your bike? Risers are typically mounted to the top tree with 1/2" dia bolts so all bushings are the same internal diameter. I would assume the differences between model specific bushings have to do with the thickness of the top tree. You need to replicate the overall length of the stock rubber setup and yes you reuse the inner metal sleeve in addition to the cupped washers. Perhaps you could cut down or grind these bushings to match the original length. I have always had good luck with plain old inexpensive Drag Specialties poly bushings. Never seen the need to overspend for Harley parts or Arlen Ness, Goodentite etc.
So do I not use the black pieces that came with them? The second pic is the clearer pieces removed of the black pieces. When I do that, I can slide the metal sleeve in, although they are a little loose and just slide our.
I read the description of the bushings you purchased...While I am not familiar with those parts, it appears that these "spacers" as they refer to them are actually taking the place of your oem sleeves and cup washers. Do the riser bolts fit properly in these without any slop? If so I would imagine you still need to trim the length to properly match the original setup. The bushings must be seated fully into the top tree and cannot be raised up. Best advice is to contact Lucky Daves customer service so that they can confirm this. Maybe they shipped the wrong parts in error.
Ahh didn't read the spacer bit. The bolts that I bought do fit fine. Ill probably have to get longer ones but yea. With those black spacer deals in place, the metal sleeves won't fit.
Those spacers replace the original washers and inner sleeves. You will still need to trim the length of the clear poly bushings they are too long. The bushings must fit flat to the tree so that there is no chance of any up-and-down movement within the top tree. Riser bolt torque is usually 30-40 ft/lbs
No problem. Anytime. Just remember to keep the front fender and fuel tank covered up in case you drop a bolt or something. Bath towels work fine. Good luck!
Just to say, I went through the same debate with the new Gooden tite HD rebranded ones. I thought they were too long also, but I was told they will compress into place. So I installed them, torqued to spec and sure enough they compressed flush, no issues, and no cutting. I did need slightly longer bolts, I bought 1/4 and 1/2 longer grade 8s. I dont recall which I used though. Make sure they arent so long that the bottom out in the bar or riser...
Just to say, I went through the same debate with the new Gooden tite HD rebranded ones. I thought they were too long also, but I was told they will compress into place. So I installed them, torqued to spec and sure enough they compressed flush, no issues, and no cutting. I did need slightly longer bolts, I bought 1/4 and 1/2 longer grade 8s. I dont recall which I used though. Make sure they arent so long that the bottom out in the bar or riser...
Guess I should've tried bolting them down first .. bah.
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