Wild1 WO508 + 1" Riser Kit (HD PN46809-09)
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Joined: May 2017
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From: Chicago, IL
Wild1 WO508 + 1" Riser Kit (HD PN46809-09)
So I need some clarification from those of you that have installed the 1" riser kit for the nacelle from HD (PN 46809-09) and the WO508 bars from Wild1 on your Softail Deluxe.
I am not installing a nacelle on this bike, just FYI.
The clarification I need is what cables you may have changed due to shortness of length after installing the risers and bars.
I will be running the wiring from the clamshell (turn signal/start/off button) thru the handlebars.
From the looks of it, it looks like the the wiring from the clamshells are long enough, the clutch cable is long enough but the brake cable might be tight.
What cables did you have to extend? And did you also wire thru the handlebar?
I am not installing a nacelle on this bike, just FYI.
The clarification I need is what cables you may have changed due to shortness of length after installing the risers and bars.
I will be running the wiring from the clamshell (turn signal/start/off button) thru the handlebars.
From the looks of it, it looks like the the wiring from the clamshells are long enough, the clutch cable is long enough but the brake cable might be tight.
What cables did you have to extend? And did you also wire thru the handlebar?
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 45
Likes: 16
From: Chicago, IL
So if anybody is wondering, I figure I leave a few tidbits here since this combo is quite common on the FLSTN (deluxe).
You can route the clamshell wiring thru the WO508's and they feed really easy so you don't even need a coat hanger or anything to pull the wire thru. You can just simply push the bundled wire thru.
I went with a 6 inch extension on those wires. Simply splice the original cable, use 16 gauge wire and solder away. I made sure to splice at different locations thru the wire so that the heat shrink didn't bundle up too heavy.
I did not remove the gas tank. If I were to tackle this again, I probably would remove it. But the connection tube in the front of the tank is pain in the *** to deal with so I just unbolted the tank and slid it back about 4 inches, and lifted the rear for better access. Getting to the switches were a pain the ***. I also replaced the torx bolt at the end of the gas tank with a hex button head cap screw because I really hate torx bits. That is a 5/16 -18 x 1 1/4 size bolt.
I did not change the length of the throttle cables, the clutch cable or brake line.
The brake line does need a little adjustment. Since they're connected to the back of the headlight tin via tabs, I removed one of them, and adjusted the amount of slack by adjusting the bolt in under the main stem.
You can route the clamshell wiring thru the WO508's and they feed really easy so you don't even need a coat hanger or anything to pull the wire thru. You can just simply push the bundled wire thru.
I went with a 6 inch extension on those wires. Simply splice the original cable, use 16 gauge wire and solder away. I made sure to splice at different locations thru the wire so that the heat shrink didn't bundle up too heavy.
I did not remove the gas tank. If I were to tackle this again, I probably would remove it. But the connection tube in the front of the tank is pain in the *** to deal with so I just unbolted the tank and slid it back about 4 inches, and lifted the rear for better access. Getting to the switches were a pain the ***. I also replaced the torx bolt at the end of the gas tank with a hex button head cap screw because I really hate torx bits. That is a 5/16 -18 x 1 1/4 size bolt.
I did not change the length of the throttle cables, the clutch cable or brake line.
The brake line does need a little adjustment. Since they're connected to the back of the headlight tin via tabs, I removed one of them, and adjusted the amount of slack by adjusting the bolt in under the main stem.
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