the torque inserts look perfect for what i need and it has just under 20k miles. Was looking into a big bore but that much further down the line lol

 

I'll check them out, thanks for the input!

 

WTF...change the heads and keep that torque cam? Only if the compression ratio stays the same.
This is a science, start with the heads, then decide the cam. 11:1 much better than 10:5 with same stock cam. Gets better after that jug work, just cant use a torque cam thats restricted to a 10:5 jug.

 

The amount of power and where it comes in has everything to do with the specs of the build and nothing to do with cam drive method

 

I don't know your budget , but look at Feuling, it was suggested to my by Indy, he's done hundreds of cams, kits, pumps and plates, the Feuling Cam Chest Kit #7220 was what he highly recommended. I have an Arlen Ness Big Sucker, V&H Straight Shots, DynoJet Power Commander and the Feuling #7220. After the install I had it Dnyo tuned. Trust me, and all will agree, after you do cams, get her tuned, the generic map that Fuel Moto sent was ok, but nothing like having it done.

https://www.feulingparts.com/sku/7220

 

Everyone will have their own favorite manufacturer or 2. What matters is where you want your power. Low end torque cams start pulling right away and die early meaning no more power after a certain rpm. Top end hp cams start a little later and pull all the way to redline. No cam pulls hard off the line all the way to redline.
Depends on your bike, how heavy it is, ride solo or 2up, and your riding style.
Chain vs gear drive has nothing to do with it. When the intake valve closes does.
Hp cams with a late intake valve close bleeds compression. If it bleeds too much you need to raise it either using different pistons, decking the heads, and/or using a thinner head gasket.
Too high of compression and you get detonation which can destroy a motor quick.
Corrected compression of 180 on the low side to 200 on the high side is generally where you want to be.

The 37g is a bit of hp cam and will be a little soft in your stock application but not too bad if you ride aggressively and keep the rpm up a little. Personally I think they are a good choice. If not those, look for others with similar intake valve open/close events. S&S 510 would be another.
Again, chain or gear drive has nothing to do with it.

Your V&H pipes with no baffles will not help the situation. The TTIs will help quite a bit tho when it comes to getting back some good low end torque back.


This is backwards. Decide what cam suits your needs and riding style and build around those to get a desirable corrected compression. And compression ratio or static compression doesn't mean much. What matters is your corrected compression. This is what you get after everything, including cams, is done.
You can use this Compression calculator to see what a specific cam will give you for compression based on your engine specs and give you an idea what you need to do to get where it should be. Like I said previously, a corrected compression of 180psi to 200psi is where you want to be. 190ish being ideal.

You can also use this Camshaft comparator to compare specs of different cams. You'll notice the tw37 and S&S 510 have the same lift and same 38° intake valve close. The 510 has more overlap tho which can also help with cylinder fill and power if your exhaust works well with it. Cylinder fill is the name of the game. Your exhaust can make or break a build. Especially with good performance cams with overlap.

Hope this helps.

 

Feuling Parts
Something whispers this is a pretty well rounded cam, but mind you, I do not and rarely hit the highway. Normally a trip to New Hampshire in a cage on the highway will run you about 3 to 3.5 hours. When the misses and I load up, that trip takes over 6+ hours, backroads and scenic routes. It's all about the journey .

 

Did you install this kit yourself?

 

No sir. I did not, I'll do oils, plugs, wires, air filters and some basic maintenance , but I let my long trusted Indy do all the mechanical work.

 

Good lord this thread was chock full of bad/wrong info until 60gunner got some facts put in there lol. To the op all ill add is you should get a budget because that'll be the determining factor in how much or how little you can do. Also if you're planning on doing a cam this year then big bore next year then heads the year after just wait till you can do it all...chances are a cam that will work now won't work after well after a big bore or headwork. Theres no magic cam...theres a compromise included for free in every one. Before you go ordering gear driven cams you might want to have a look at how much crank runout you have...any thing more than. 003 is not recommended for gear driven cams. Figure out how much money you have, add about 25 percent for a contingency fund then find yourself a professional builder. Even if you're doing the work yourself the knowledge these guys have will make sure the parts you put together will perform well with each other. Scott at hillside or Kirby at veetwin are great to work with, do high quality work and are always willing to share their knowledge with you. Call one of those guys...tell them what you're looking to do and they'll put together a plan for you. Good luck and keep us posted.