When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I disassembled the front wheel from the forks to polish the aluminum/wheel and installs new floating rotor.
Im putting it all back together and I have a question. When removing the 5/16 nuts on the axle cap one of the studs unthreaded out with the nut. If one came out I wanted to get the second stud out too. I double nutted the stud and backed the second stud out. Cleaned them both up and reinstalled with blue thread locker on the studs.
My question...The 5/16 nuts I took of were a little shabby so I want to install 5/16 stainless nuts and lock washers. Am I headed in the right direction. Of course the nuts will be torqued. The nuts in the pic are just place keepers till I get the right stuff. Is blue thread lock appropriate for the new stainless nuts?
Thanks for your input
Last edited by Wagondog; Jan 10, 2021 at 02:15 PM.
I disassembled the front wheel from the forks to polish the aluminum/wheel and installs new floating rotor.
Im putting it all back together and I have a question. When removing the 5/16 nuts on the axle cap one of the studs unthreaded out with the nut. If one came out I wanted to get the second stud out too. I double nutted the stud and backed the second stud out. Cleaned them both up and reinstalled with blue thread locker on the studs.
My question...The 5/16 nuts I took of were a little shabby so I want to install 5/16 stainless nuts and lock washers. Am I headed in the right direction. Of course the nuts will be torqued. The nuts in the pic are just place keepers till I get the right stuff. Is blue thread lock appropriate for the new stainless nuts?
Thanks for your input
Won't hurt, but technically not necessary if you have fresh lock washers...
FWIW...
I used Locktite 242 (blue) when I used stainless hardware on my engine (cam chest, rocker covers, primary cover, etc) to act as a barrier between the dissimilar metals to guard against galvanic corrosion.. the fact that it "locked" the fasteners was just a bonus...
Also, If I'm going to use Loctite 242 (blue) on a nut that is mounted on a stud, I will use Locktite 262 (red) when I install the stud. That way, the nut will break loose before the stud, when I take it apart. If I then need to remove the stud, I just use heat to loosen the red locktite...
Won't hurt, but technically not necessary if you have fresh lock washers...
FWIW...
I used Locktite 242 (blue) when I used stainless hardware on my engine (cam chest, rocker covers, primary cover, etc) to act as a barrier between the dissimilar metals to guard against galvanic corrosion.. the fact that it "locked" the fasteners was just a bonus...
Also, If I'm going to use Loctite 242 (blue) on a nut that is mounted on a stud, I will use Locktite 262 (red) when I install the stud. That way, the nut will break loose before the stud, when I take it apart. If I then need to remove the stud, I just use heat to loosen the red locktite...
thanks hatitude,
Interesting information about the dissimilar metal barrier with locktite
Are stainless nylok nuts good to use instead of nuts and lock washers
Last edited by Wagondog; Jan 10, 2021 at 04:14 PM.
thanks hatitude, Interesting information about the dissimilar metal barrier with locktite
Are stainless nylok nuts good to use instead of nuts and lock washers
I have a lot of experience with boats in a salt water environment... galvanic corrosion can wreak havoc on boats' fittings/hardware/fasteners...
When I bought the stainless steel fastener kit for my Twin Cam engine, the vendor suggested blue loctite or anti-seize with the SS hardware to guard against galvanic corrosion, which made perfect sense to me. Especially with SS hardware in aluminum cases/threads.... Just remember, torque specs are usually for dry threads. If you use any product that lubricates the fastener, use the low torque value or even back off a tad... there are charts showing how some thread additives affect torque if you want to get very technical..
The nylok nuts seem to be a good alternative in some cases, and they may be easier to use in some cases... but I'm old fashion and usually stick with whatever fastener the part was designed with. I know I wouldn't trust a nylok nut in a high heat situation, but that too, maybe just my personal bias coming through...
I have a lot of experience with boats in a salt water environment... galvanic corrosion can wreak havoc on boats' fittings/hardware/fasteners...
When I bought the stainless steel fastener kit for my Twin Cam engine, the vendor suggested blue loctite or anti-seize with the SS hardware to guard against galvanic corrosion, which made perfect sense to me. Especially with SS hardware in aluminum cases/threads.... Just remember, torque specs are usually for dry threads. If you use any product that lubricates the fastener, use the low torque value or even back off a tad... there are charts showing how some thread additives affect torque if you want to get very technical..
The nylok nuts seem to be a good alternative in some cases, and they may be easier to use in some cases... but I'm old fashion and usually stick with whatever fastener the part was designed with. I know I wouldn't trust a nylok nut in a high heat situation, but that too, maybe just my personal bias coming through...
thanks for the good information, Im going to take your advice for the red on the stud and the blue on the nut. Makes perfect sense to me
OK, so was blue used on the nut or stud? Red goes in the stud into the hole blue on the nut as you don't want the stud to come out when you remove the nut, but I don't use any locktite on the nuts but rather the split washer that is the factory setup.
OK, so was blue used on the nut or stud? Red goes in the stud into the hole blue on the nut as you don't want the stud to come out when you remove the nut, but I don't use any locktite on the nuts but rather the split washer that is the factory setup.
No red locktite was used, removed the studs, cleaned them up reinstalled studs with blue and new stainless washers and stainless nuts.
I know from years of use that blue can be removed with hand tools but red may need heat. I just wondered if upgrading to stainless steel nuts and bolts was a good idea
thanks for the reply
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
Advice Needed
