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I have seen somewhere on here about the clunk in the front end of harleys and there was a change from the factory. I have the factory service manual for my 99 fatboy and it describes the fall away method but I've seen where a certain torque will work. My question would be which one for this year bike is better and if it's torque what is proper torque spec?
If you don't like the vagaries of the fall-away method, I got this from a retired HD tech back in 2008. It's what I've always used since then and has worked well.Jack the front end of the bike off the ground. Loosen the pinch bolts on the lower triple clamps. This will allow an even tightening and the bearings will stay even/parallel to each other and perpendicular to the neck because the triple clamp will slide so nothing binds. Tighten the adjusting nut until the front end is hard to turn. Next turn the handlebars back and forth, from stop to stop, through several cycles. Notice the front end becomes easier to turn. Back off the adjusting nut to a slightly loose fit, then tighten to about 9 ft-lbs torque. If the front end still wobbles after this (tire pressure good and tire in good condition, with no cupping, etc.) and the wobble occurs during deceleration, tighten the adjusting nut a bit more. Retighten the lower triple tree pinch bolts.
If you get a shimmy and more tightening does nothing to help, then suspect that the steering head bearings have shifted and the races are no longer parallel to the axis of the steering head. This is not unusual in HD bikes as they are relatively heavy. Modern bike head bearings tend to shift back and forth in the frame, especially on the heavier bikes, and this causes the bearings to become non-parallel. Any free play in the head bearings will compound this situation. This sets up torque forces that constantly try to correct themselves resulting in a shimmy, or head shake. The cause is not looseness; the bearings have shifted, and things ain't parallel. Pull the front end off and try to reseat the races in the frame neck.
Something else on these neck bearings - Since these bearings do not move around like those on an axle, they tend to stay in one spot in relation to the race. Therefore every blow on the front end from road conditions tends to flatten the individual rollers or ***** ever so slightly. Over a period of time these flat spots can cause a condition whereby you point the forks straight ahead, and they tend to fall back onto the flat spot, causing a weave as you go down the road. If tightening the preload does nothing to correct the situation, suspect flat spots in the neck bearings. Replace the entire bearings, cups included.
You probably have a grease fitting. I do. Don't over do the fall away. Try the minimum first. It will wake up that handling. Too much is actually why it clunks unless it really is loose. Which I doubt.
The reason it has a fall away is there are no torque wrench tool designed to work with that slotted nut. Make sure that bending lock plate is good if you fill the need to move nut.
This is as far as I have gotten so far. My son came out and asked me to help with his car so bike put on back burner for now. To me the races look good. Bearings need to be cleaned up and checked over. What's a good way to get all of the old grease out? Thought about just shooting with brake clean but figured I'd better ask before I do something.
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steering nut fall away or torque specs?
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