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Primary manual tensioner options?

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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 07:08 PM
  #11  
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Maybe you can look into purchasing the manual adjuster included in the below kit.

https://twinpower-usa.com/32t-cmpnstr-eliminator.html
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 07:15 PM
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Comp's in there for a number of very important reasons, leave it alone. Manual adjuster on the other hand is a valid R&R item to improve things.

Think about it a second if a compensator wasn't a very needed item in a stock engine from a raw engineering standpoint do you really think the moco would spend the money installing them over a much cheaper over solid unit?
 

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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by LQQK_OUT
Maybe you can look into purchasing the manual adjuster included in the below kit.

https://twinpower-usa.com/32t-cmpnstr-eliminator.html
Thanks, That looks like it would work well but appears to be sold as a kit only. I will contact Twin Power to see if can purchase separately.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 07:24 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by TwiZted Biker
Comp's in there for a number of very important reasons, leave it alone. Manual adjuster on the other hand is a valid R&R item to improve things.

Think about it a second if a compensator wasn't a very needed item in a stock engine from a raw engineering standpoint do you really think the moco would spend the money installing them over much a cheaper over solid unit?
The MOW sprocket is not a solid sprocket. It does have shock absorbers built into it.(that can be replaced cheaply) I believe it is a great alternative to the comp or a solid sprocket. Aftermarket options are often an improvement over MOCO original design.
After a year I am very happy with the performance.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RHD51
About a year ago I replaced my compensator with the Man-O-War 32 tooth sprocket, from Pro Twin. It came with a thick shoe to add to the stock auto adjust tensioner.
During the install I discovered the auto tensioner had tensioned the chain too tight, causing the symptoms that made me suspect the comp.
I am about to pull the primary cover to inspect for wear and tension. If find the auto tensioner has overtightened again I will replace it with a manual tensioner.
I know the Baker is good but pricey at about $280. I would like suggestions on an alternative that will work with the 32 tooth sprocket to take up the extra slack but a little less pricey for a tensioner.
What are my options?
Twin Power makes a manual tensioner that comes with the thicker shoe, included in their 32 tooth comp eliminator sprocket kit. I have one and the manual tensioner works well with my 32 tooth sprocket... I've only seen it sold with their 32 tooth comp eliminator sprocket kit, but you could contact them and see if they would sell one a la carte....







However, the shoe that DarkHorse sends with the 32 tooth comp, seems to work well too. DarkHorse originally bought out Rivera's stock of tensioner shoes, that Rivera used to sell with their Rivera Primo Game Changer 32 tooth engine sprocket, before they closed their doors. There are a lot of them out there in use for years before being included with the DarkHorse Man-O-War Motorsprocket....

IMHO.... your problem is that you have a 2007 bike. If your auto primary chain tensioner is OEM, it was the early version of that auto tensioner, #39929-06A, and proved to be problematic...

In about 2010, the MoCo switched to an updated auto tensioner #39929-06B. It was upgraded in several areas and greatly reduced the auto tensioner from over tightening the primary chain. The newer version is much less problematic than the original.

I ran the "B" version in 124" 135HP/151TQ engine with no issues.... I would still be running it, except I switched to a solid engine sprocket and it came with the manual tensioner...

Here is a pic comparing the old "A" version and the new "B" version. The original "A" verion is on the bottom and the newer "B" version is on the top...

The new version has less teeth on the upper ramp, and smaller teeth all around. That reduces the amount of movement, allowing for smaller changes from the adjuster. It also has a more robust bottom frame. This thicker, stronger bottom frame reduces flex. The frame flex and bigger teeth of the original version, are believed to have contributed to it over tightened the primary chain. There were a couple other improvements that escape me at the moment..




Regardless of the auto tensioner you have, your driving habits can contribute to the auto tensioner over tightening the primary chain. You should make sure the primary is up to full operating temperature, before doing any aggressive engine breaking. Aggressive engine braking causes the chain to slack in a way, that the tenioner will ratchet up. If you do that when the primary is cold, when the chain gets to operating temperature, it will be too tight...

You may want to try the newer version of the HD Auto Tensioner before going to an adjustable... but it's your call..

​​​​​​​Good luck with your repair....
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 10:10 PM
  #16  
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i went w. hayden and happy i did i did want baker myself but half the price for hayden. unless i went BAKER compensator i would also go baker adjuster but otherwise i cant wait to put my drag specialties rotor has the compensator spring is all i need plus a new rotor just waiting on stator so i will remove inner cover NOT grind it if you take you oil tank off clean it would be very wise as well it used 4 cans brake cleaner thoroughly flush out the oil tank(i thank god i took it off as much i didnt want to.)im glad i did maybe why im still riding every day. just did clutch adjustment and primary oil change and working better like you can actually talk w. it now(rides like its supposed to) unreal what a difference..i use hayden chain adjuster w. no shim in my case but seems loose but i dont rev it and pop the clutch like im try pop wheelies either. good luck.. if i ever change my compensator itself i will do complete primary drive overhaul meaning compenstor, clutch, chain, i have wondered about going to open case primary is not chain but belt drive?$?$?
 

Last edited by 08hogheaven; Dec 17, 2021 at 10:40 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 10:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hattitude
Twin Power makes a manual tensioner that comes with the thicker shoe, included in their 32 tooth comp eliminator sprocket kit. I have one and the manual tensioner works well with my 32 tooth sprocket... I've only seen it sold with their 32 tooth comp eliminator sprocket kit, but you could contact them and see if they would sell one a la carte....







However, the shoe that DarkHorse sends with the 32 tooth comp, seems to work well too. DarkHorse originally bought out Rivera's stock of tensioner shoes, that Rivera used to sell with their Rivera Primo Game Changer 32 tooth engine sprocket, before they closed their doors. There are a lot of them out there in use for years before being included with the DarkHorse Man-O-War Motorsprocket....

IMHO.... your problem is that you have a 2007 bike. If your auto primary chain tensioner is OEM, it was the early version of that auto tensioner, #39929-06A, and proved to be problematic...

In about 2010, the MoCo switched to an updated auto tensioner #39929-06B. It was upgraded in several areas and greatly reduced the auto tensioner from over tightening the primary chain. The newer version is much less problematic than the original.

I ran the "B" version in 124" 135HP/151TQ engine with no issues.... I would still be running it, except I switched to a solid engine sprocket and it came with the manual tensioner...

Here is a pic comparing the old "A" version and the new "B" version. The original "A" verion is on the bottom and the newer "B" version is on the top...

The new version has less teeth on the upper ramp, and smaller teeth all around. That reduces the amount of movement, allowing for smaller changes from the adjuster. It also has a more robust bottom frame. This thicker, stronger bottom frame reduces flex. The frame flex and bigger teeth of the original version, are believed to have contributed to it over tightened the primary chain. There were a couple other improvements that escape me at the moment..




Regardless of the auto tensioner you have, your driving habits can contribute to the auto tensioner over tightening the primary chain. You should make sure the primary is up to full operating temperature, before doing any aggressive engine breaking. Aggressive engine braking causes the chain to slack in a way, that the tenioner will ratchet up. If you do that when the primary is cold, when the chain gets to operating temperature, it will be too tight...

You may want to try the newer version of the HD Auto Tensioner before going to an adjustable... but it's your call..

Good luck with your repair....
Thanks for the input, I went back and looked at photo's of my adjuster when I installed the MOW. It appears that I have the newer version with the smaller teeth. It must have been upgraded by orig. owner.
I will inspect for any clues of cause if overtightened again. At this point I am considering options before I have pulled the primary cover off to inspect.
​​​​​​​I may have to reconsider my riding style as I do tend to downshift to a stop to save the brakes. I guess brake pads are cheaper than wearing out bearings by putting additional strain on the shaft.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 10:39 PM
  #18  
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Primary tensioner
This is my tensioner with added shoe that came with the Darkhorse MOW
 
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 10:47 PM
  #19  
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WELL said, nice pic by the way?? i have a rotor new(250$) to replace old rotor { yes part of charging system} has broken compensator spring((prolly before i bought the scoot) (compensator spring part attach to rotor go figure(have replaced stator before now bad stator again but this time i change rotor also and refill primary 40oz. oil not 32oz big mistake,the other 8oz. sticking to your chain and what not
 

Last edited by 08hogheaven; Dec 17, 2021 at 11:00 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2021 | 11:06 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RHD51

Primary tensioner
This is my tensioner with added shoe that came with the Darkhorse MOW

That certainly looks like the "B" tensioner.... Like I said they were far less problematic than the "A" version, but they weren't perfect.....

If you are downshifting on an engine that is at operating temperature, you should be fine... not your fault if the tensioner is making things too tight...

Could be time for a new, and possibly different, tensioner...

Good luck with your repair... Let us know how it turns out...
 
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