Primary manual tensioner options?
https://twinpower-usa.com/32t-cmpnstr-eliminator.html
Think about it a second if a compensator wasn't a very needed item in a stock engine from a raw engineering standpoint do you really think the moco would spend the money installing them over a much cheaper over solid unit?
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Dec 17, 2021 at 07:18 PM.
https://twinpower-usa.com/32t-cmpnstr-eliminator.html
Think about it a second if a compensator wasn't a very needed item in a stock engine from a raw engineering standpoint do you really think the moco would spend the money installing them over much a cheaper over solid unit?
After a year I am very happy with the performance.
During the install I discovered the auto tensioner had tensioned the chain too tight, causing the symptoms that made me suspect the comp.
I am about to pull the primary cover to inspect for wear and tension. If find the auto tensioner has overtightened again I will replace it with a manual tensioner.
I know the Baker is good but pricey at about $280. I would like suggestions on an alternative that will work with the 32 tooth sprocket to take up the extra slack but a little less pricey for a tensioner.
What are my options?

However, the shoe that DarkHorse sends with the 32 tooth comp, seems to work well too. DarkHorse originally bought out Rivera's stock of tensioner shoes, that Rivera used to sell with their Rivera Primo Game Changer 32 tooth engine sprocket, before they closed their doors. There are a lot of them out there in use for years before being included with the DarkHorse Man-O-War Motorsprocket....
IMHO.... your problem is that you have a 2007 bike. If your auto primary chain tensioner is OEM, it was the early version of that auto tensioner, #39929-06A, and proved to be problematic...
In about 2010, the MoCo switched to an updated auto tensioner #39929-06B. It was upgraded in several areas and greatly reduced the auto tensioner from over tightening the primary chain. The newer version is much less problematic than the original.
I ran the "B" version in 124" 135HP/151TQ engine with no issues.... I would still be running it, except I switched to a solid engine sprocket and it came with the manual tensioner...
Here is a pic comparing the old "A" version and the new "B" version. The original "A" verion is on the bottom and the newer "B" version is on the top...
The new version has less teeth on the upper ramp, and smaller teeth all around. That reduces the amount of movement, allowing for smaller changes from the adjuster. It also has a more robust bottom frame. This thicker, stronger bottom frame reduces flex. The frame flex and bigger teeth of the original version, are believed to have contributed to it over tightened the primary chain. There were a couple other improvements that escape me at the moment..

Regardless of the auto tensioner you have, your driving habits can contribute to the auto tensioner over tightening the primary chain. You should make sure the primary is up to full operating temperature, before doing any aggressive engine breaking. Aggressive engine braking causes the chain to slack in a way, that the tenioner will ratchet up. If you do that when the primary is cold, when the chain gets to operating temperature, it will be too tight...
You may want to try the newer version of the HD Auto Tensioner before going to an adjustable... but it's your call..
Good luck with your repair....
Last edited by 08hogheaven; Dec 17, 2021 at 10:40 PM.

However, the shoe that DarkHorse sends with the 32 tooth comp, seems to work well too. DarkHorse originally bought out Rivera's stock of tensioner shoes, that Rivera used to sell with their Rivera Primo Game Changer 32 tooth engine sprocket, before they closed their doors. There are a lot of them out there in use for years before being included with the DarkHorse Man-O-War Motorsprocket....
IMHO.... your problem is that you have a 2007 bike. If your auto primary chain tensioner is OEM, it was the early version of that auto tensioner, #39929-06A, and proved to be problematic...
In about 2010, the MoCo switched to an updated auto tensioner #39929-06B. It was upgraded in several areas and greatly reduced the auto tensioner from over tightening the primary chain. The newer version is much less problematic than the original.
I ran the "B" version in 124" 135HP/151TQ engine with no issues.... I would still be running it, except I switched to a solid engine sprocket and it came with the manual tensioner...
Here is a pic comparing the old "A" version and the new "B" version. The original "A" verion is on the bottom and the newer "B" version is on the top...
The new version has less teeth on the upper ramp, and smaller teeth all around. That reduces the amount of movement, allowing for smaller changes from the adjuster. It also has a more robust bottom frame. This thicker, stronger bottom frame reduces flex. The frame flex and bigger teeth of the original version, are believed to have contributed to it over tightened the primary chain. There were a couple other improvements that escape me at the moment..

Regardless of the auto tensioner you have, your driving habits can contribute to the auto tensioner over tightening the primary chain. You should make sure the primary is up to full operating temperature, before doing any aggressive engine breaking. Aggressive engine braking causes the chain to slack in a way, that the tenioner will ratchet up. If you do that when the primary is cold, when the chain gets to operating temperature, it will be too tight...
You may want to try the newer version of the HD Auto Tensioner before going to an adjustable... but it's your call..
Good luck with your repair....
I will inspect for any clues of cause if overtightened again. At this point I am considering options before I have pulled the primary cover off to inspect.
I may have to reconsider my riding style as I do tend to downshift to a stop to save the brakes. I guess brake pads are cheaper than wearing out bearings by putting additional strain on the shaft.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Last edited by 08hogheaven; Dec 17, 2021 at 11:00 PM.
That certainly looks like the "B" tensioner.... Like I said they were far less problematic than the "A" version, but they weren't perfect.....
If you are downshifting on an engine that is at operating temperature, you should be fine... not your fault if the tensioner is making things too tight...
Could be time for a new, and possibly different, tensioner...
Good luck with your repair... Let us know how it turns out...









