Primary manual tensioner options?
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 696
Likes: 488
From: Southern Indiana
Primary manual tensioner options?
About a year ago I replaced my compensator with the Man-O-War 32 tooth sprocket, from Pro Twin. It came with a thick shoe to add to the stock auto adjust tensioner.
During the install I discovered the auto tensioner had tensioned the chain too tight, causing the symptoms that made me suspect the comp.
I am about to pull the primary cover to inspect for wear and tension. If find the auto tensioner has overtightened again I will replace it with a manual tensioner.
I know the Baker is good but pricey at about $280. I would like suggestions on an alternative that will work with the 32 tooth sprocket to take up the extra slack but a little less pricey for a tensioner.
What are my options?
During the install I discovered the auto tensioner had tensioned the chain too tight, causing the symptoms that made me suspect the comp.
I am about to pull the primary cover to inspect for wear and tension. If find the auto tensioner has overtightened again I will replace it with a manual tensioner.
I know the Baker is good but pricey at about $280. I would like suggestions on an alternative that will work with the 32 tooth sprocket to take up the extra slack but a little less pricey for a tensioner.
What are my options?
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,435
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From: Beyond Fucital
Last edited by RANGER73; Dec 17, 2021 at 05:23 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,126
Likes: 51,446
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Boys, those Hayden units everybody is so in love allow that chain the jump like crazy at speed. It does not keep the chain at a steady consistent level like a manual adjust will. Did a test on a kick start bike with one of those with all the shim plates installed. fired the bike up and used a timing light to watch the chain at varying speeds. As it spins the RPM's up the spring compresses and bounces allowing the upper part of the chain warp in a S wave shape that almost hits the screw bosses on the older inner covers.
Notice later model bikes with the auto adjusters have the bolt bosses on the outside now ? Think about that.
Is no magic free lunch when it comes to primary chain adjusters, you want it right you do manually and have open and correct things as part of the regular maintenance regiment.
Notice later model bikes with the auto adjusters have the bolt bosses on the outside now ? Think about that.
Is no magic free lunch when it comes to primary chain adjusters, you want it right you do manually and have open and correct things as part of the regular maintenance regiment.
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,435
Likes: 7,127
From: Beyond Fucital
but TwiZted has a valid point.
Boys, those Hayden units everybody is so in love allow that chain the jump like crazy at speed. It does not keep the chain at a steady consistent level like a manual adjust will. Did a test on a kick start bike with one of those with all the shim plates installed. fired the bike up and used a timing light to watch the chain at varying speeds. As it spins the RPM's up the spring compresses and bounces allowing the upper part of the chain warp in a S wave shape that almost hits the screw bosses on the older inner covers.
Notice later model bikes with the auto adjusters have the bolt bosses on the outside now ? Think about that.
Is no magic free lunch when it comes to primary chain adjusters, you want it right you do manually and have open and correct things as part of the regular maintenance regiment.
Notice later model bikes with the auto adjusters have the bolt bosses on the outside now ? Think about that.
Is no magic free lunch when it comes to primary chain adjusters, you want it right you do manually and have open and correct things as part of the regular maintenance regiment.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,593
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
Be sure to check why your's is overtightening.
The auto tensioner can fool you. With outer cover off, the first end of slack you see when you push up on chain is the free slack. However, when you push up harder, you are collapsing the two small coil springs in the tensioner. That also is considered free play.
It can fool you and has many many people. If it is indeed too tight (less then 1/2 total when pushing firmly) your chain has uneven wear and is letting tensioner pull up in the worn areas and then too tight in non worn areas.
Chains get this way from engine breaking downshifting rather then using brakes and hot rodding.
Your sprockets may also be running out. I have been able to get slack closer to be the same thru the whole chain length by indexing the sprockets and front compensator adapter spline.
Check tension ever 5" on so on chain.
The auto tensioner can fool you. With outer cover off, the first end of slack you see when you push up on chain is the free slack. However, when you push up harder, you are collapsing the two small coil springs in the tensioner. That also is considered free play.
It can fool you and has many many people. If it is indeed too tight (less then 1/2 total when pushing firmly) your chain has uneven wear and is letting tensioner pull up in the worn areas and then too tight in non worn areas.
Chains get this way from engine breaking downshifting rather then using brakes and hot rodding.
Your sprockets may also be running out. I have been able to get slack closer to be the same thru the whole chain length by indexing the sprockets and front compensator adapter spline.
Check tension ever 5" on so on chain.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 17, 2021 at 06:04 PM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 696
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From: Southern Indiana
I believe the tooth count does matter. The 32 tooth sprocket causes much more slack in the chain and the Hayden adjuster is not designed to set proper tension with that much slack. Also as TwiZted said, I think I want the manual adjuster.
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 696
Likes: 488
From: Southern Indiana
Be sure to check why your's is overtightening.
The auto tensioner can fool you. With outer cover off, the first end of slack you see when you push up on chain is the free slack. However, when you push up harder, you are collapsing the two small coil springs in the tensioner. That also is considered free play.
It can fool you and has many many people. If it is indeed too tight (less then 1/2 total when pushing firmly) your chain has uneven wear and is letting tensioner pull up in the worn areas and then too tight in non worn areas.
Chains get this way from engine breaking downshifting rather then using brakes and hot rodding.
Your sprockets may also be running out. I have been able to get slack closer to be the same thru the whole chain length by indexing the sprockets and front compensator adapter spline.
Check tension ever 5" on so on chain.
The auto tensioner can fool you. With outer cover off, the first end of slack you see when you push up on chain is the free slack. However, when you push up harder, you are collapsing the two small coil springs in the tensioner. That also is considered free play.
It can fool you and has many many people. If it is indeed too tight (less then 1/2 total when pushing firmly) your chain has uneven wear and is letting tensioner pull up in the worn areas and then too tight in non worn areas.
Chains get this way from engine breaking downshifting rather then using brakes and hot rodding.
Your sprockets may also be running out. I have been able to get slack closer to be the same thru the whole chain length by indexing the sprockets and front compensator adapter spline.
Check tension ever 5" on so on chain.
How do I tell if the chain is stretched or worn?
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 696
Likes: 488
From: Southern Indiana
Be sure to check why your's is overtightening.
The auto tensioner can fool you. With outer cover off, the first end of slack you see when you push up on chain is the free slack. However, when you push up harder, you are collapsing the two small coil springs in the tensioner. That also is considered free play.
It can fool you and has many many people. If it is indeed too tight (less then 1/2 total when pushing firmly) your chain has uneven wear and is letting tensioner pull up in the worn areas and then too tight in non worn areas.
Chains get this way from engine breaking downshifting rather then using brakes and hot rodding.
Your sprockets may also be running out. I have been able to get slack closer to be the same thru the whole chain length by indexing the sprockets and front compensator adapter spline.
Check tension ever 5" on so on chain.
The auto tensioner can fool you. With outer cover off, the first end of slack you see when you push up on chain is the free slack. However, when you push up harder, you are collapsing the two small coil springs in the tensioner. That also is considered free play.
It can fool you and has many many people. If it is indeed too tight (less then 1/2 total when pushing firmly) your chain has uneven wear and is letting tensioner pull up in the worn areas and then too tight in non worn areas.
Chains get this way from engine breaking downshifting rather then using brakes and hot rodding.
Your sprockets may also be running out. I have been able to get slack closer to be the same thru the whole chain length by indexing the sprockets and front compensator adapter spline.
Check tension ever 5" on so on chain.