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Old Aug 21, 2022 | 07:11 AM
  #21  
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thanks. great tips. that guy is an awesome instructor.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2022 | 09:18 AM
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hope I dont get on everyones nerves with the questions....the piston rises under low psi from my compressor and its an excellent tip/check!!
So Ive come across several jets I bought years ago. what would be the proper starting point for a jet with the thunder header pipes. I think theres a 180 in there. I dont think I changed emulsion tube because I found one new in package from a kit. previously the guy had straight pipes and couldnt get it tuned hence all the jets.
Im ordering the EZ adj fuel mix screw today!
 
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Old Aug 21, 2022 | 10:38 AM
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Just for your reference.....

I have a 2001 88" with Stage I... Vance & Hines straight shot exhausts and Screamin' Eagle high flow air cleaner...

I left the OEM 45/190 jets in the carb, went with a CV Performance Velocity needle, and my mixture screw is at a little shy of 2.5 turns...

It runs/starts very well...

FWIW.... anything over 3 turns on the mixture screw, I up the size of the pilot jet, and start all over with the mixture screw.. Any full throttle issues will have me reevaluate the main jet.. I went to the CV Performance needle due to decel popping and other issues at lower throttle settings that the mixture screw didn't help. For my set-up the OEM pilot jet (45) and CV Performance needle were a very good match... I tried the N65 needle and it didn't work well with my set-up.

IIRC.... You have a 95" with a Thunder header... your fuel needs will be different from my set-up... my set-up was just for your reference...

Good luck with the rebuild and tune... There are some good tutorials on the CV Performance web site I gave you..
 

Last edited by hattitude; Aug 21, 2022 at 10:40 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2022 | 11:15 AM
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many thanks! the details are super helpful. I bought this bike 9 years ago, but I was in a very bad place in life. I feel like Im being a detective now, peeling back the layers of things I did "blindly"
Im writing this all down in my shop notebook. again many thanks. Im excited about riding again.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2022 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ThrillKilla
many thanks! the details are super helpful. I bought this bike 9 years ago, but I was in a very bad place in life. I feel like Im being a detective now, peeling back the layers of things I did "blindly"
Im writing this all down in my shop notebook. again many thanks. Im excited about riding again.

As it should be....!!!!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2022 | 11:11 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Clammy
I installed a Pingel 1311CHV vacuum operated petcock in Reaper (2005 Night Train). I did have to rotate the vacuum nipple so it faced up, but that was as easy as unscrewing the cover screws, turning it, and reinstalling the screws. Been working perfectly since 2014, and almost 120,000 miles, so far.

https://www.pingelonline.com/pc_prod...794C57A61DD042

Cheers!
I installed a pingel vacuum petcock. A little pricey but it works for me because I don't shut the gas off ... and I don't use the kill switch. Just habit.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2022 | 02:08 PM
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Unreal. Im prepping all my new parts and start to pull the carb. How on earth did my bike run with the accelerator plunger pin completely pulled out??
How can this happen? I noticed no gas spraying from the carb just as I pulled things. I roughly reassembled the pin linkage and noticed that the travel on the pin up and down is only for the first 1/8th or so of handle throttle. after that things bottom out and I think the linkage spring just gets super compressed(?)
and the rest of the throttle is pointless to the plunger stroke.

anyone see this before?? wth. are there linkage rebuild kits? the plastic piece is all wore where the spring got into it. and there was a tiny piston ring and cotter pin that are damaged. geeez
 
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Old Aug 23, 2022 | 02:17 PM
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Old Aug 23, 2022 | 02:19 PM
  #29  
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I just solved my own mess....I had pulled the bottom of the carb last year to check the float.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2022 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ThrillKilla
Unreal. Im prepping all my new parts and start to pull the carb. How on earth did my bike run with the accelerator plunger pin completely pulled out??
How can this happen? I noticed no gas spraying from the carb just as I pulled things. I roughly reassembled the pin linkage and noticed that the travel on the pin up and down is only for the first 1/8th or so of handle throttle. after that things bottom out and I think the linkage spring just gets super compressed(?)
and the rest of the throttle is pointless to the plunger stroke.

anyone see this before?? wth. are there linkage rebuild kits? the plastic piece is all wore where the spring got into it. and there was a tiny piston ring and cotter pin that are damaged. geeez

Don't know how it happened, but obviously someone took it apart and reassembled it wrong...

FWIW....
1988 was first year for the CV40 carb. It did not have an accelerator pump... The 1988 CV40 had a richer needle, to make up for having no pump.

In 1989 the CV40 got the accelerator pump. Then, the 1988 needle was used in the later CV40 carbs to improve the midrange mixture...

The accelerator pump version runs much better, but even without an accelerator pump, it could still ran reasonably well if well tuned. Since yours was tuned with the accelerator pump, you were probably running lean in the midrange, and a little sluggish on acceleration. Based on the original tune and/or mods, you may not have noticed...
 
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