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06 Heritage Front cylinder clatter.

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Old Sep 5, 2022 | 06:24 PM
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Default 06 Heritage Front cylinder clatter.

First, thank you for any direction. I've broken down a few evos, I'm looking for sound direction for parts and repairs. I have 06 Softail Heritage Classic fuel injected. It has 39000 on it. I bought it from my mom in 2019 about a year after my dad passed away. He bought the bike used with about 17000 on it if I recall. He added vance and hines pipes, but never had it remapped. I've always had a stumbling since I started riding it. Occasionally it would stall out and I'd smell gas. I pump premium, but since it's available, I would typically get 90 ethanol free. Last weekend, (this is always how it starts;-) I took it for a about 160 miles ride. I sort of thought I felt a vibration in the foot boards on the return ride.

Gas was low and I parked it Saturday evening. Sunday morning got up to go to horrible freight, started towards the gas station as the low fuel light was on, it started to stumble and carry-on, just assumed I was close to empty. Pulled the clutch in to shift and the bike shut off. I tried to start it, sob, wouldn't start. Panic mode. I start calling the neighbor for a trailer. Thinking I was out of gas. No answer. I take gas cap off, shake bike, hear gas. Push the start, it starts up, but is stumbling and carrying on. It irons out and sounds fine. I shut it off at the station, start it back up, hear an odd sound coming from the front cylinder, or at least that's where I think I hear it. Left side of bike if you were seated or primary. I get the mechanic stethoscope out, really can pinpoint the sound, but the rocker box sounded a little fuzzy. Maybe the bottom of the primary, but it really sounds like it is coming from front cylinder. My hand slipped twice while trying to squat down and twist throttle. I smacked the starter twice in video! https://www.legacy.com/us/obituaries...ry?id=12901433

do maintenance with HD synthetic, every 3000 miles or annually. With HD chrome filer (found out recently this filter may not be that great). I do the primary and trans at the same time. I check play in chain. I had swapped the plugs out to eliminate fuel delivery, as I had it running for about 5 minutes, the front header starting glowing. I shut it off and put it back in the garage. I pulled plugs, the rear plug had a bit of a black mark on the insulator. The front plug looked fine.

My plan is to pull the covers, the boxes, and look at lifters and rods. I don't have a service manual, but I had started a shopping list before this occurred. I had planned on buying a compensator and clutch basket, however... now I'm thinking about all sorts of other crap to break the bank. Maybe some tips on other things that probably should be replaced since the bike has almost 40k on it.

I appreciate any feedback, direction, foot in *** scenarios. Hopefully productive direction:-)
 

Last edited by rywolf01; Sep 5, 2022 at 06:33 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2022 | 06:43 PM
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Before you buy anything slow down and save your money for now. It kinda sounds like a fuel problem. Did the bike sit for awhile before you got it? Get a fuel pressure gauge and do that first. Then you can do a compression test and if possible a leak down test...cheap things to do especially if you can borrow some of the tools. Have you check the primary chain tension? It doesn't sound like a cam chain tensioner issue but with the year and mileage it's something you should take care of. Have you checked for any codes yet? Do that first. That's where I would start...diagnose first or your bike wont be the only thing that is broke.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2022 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Screamin beagle
Before you buy anything slow down and save your money for now. It kinda sounds like a fuel problem. Did the bike sit for awhile before you got it? Get a fuel pressure gauge and do that first. Then you can do a compression test and if possible a leak down test...cheap things to do especially if you can borrow some of the tools. Have you check the primary chain tension? It doesn't sound like a cam chain tensioner issue but with the year and mileage it's something you should take care of. Have you checked for any codes yet? Do that first. That's where I would start...diagnose first or your bike wont be the only thing that is broke.
I've put over 9000 on bike since I've owned it. I did disclose in om (original message) that I had just completed a 160 mile trip, but didn't state how much I'd driven it. I can do compression and leak down. Someone else recommended an oil pressure test too. I am pretty mechanically inclined and if you listen to sound in video, the mechanical noise starts after the unit is warmed up. I do agree that some of this is fuel related. Thank you for your response. I'll do a compression and leak down and post.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2022 | 08:55 AM
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I agree with Screamin beagle to do some diagnosis before buying a bunch of parts....

I always start with checking the battery condition, cables, and especially the ground to frame connection... That ensures that when you check for codes, they aren't being caused by an electrical glitch.

Then I check for codes. I write down all that are present, and then clear them. I start/run the bike. I see what, if any, codes return.

If codes return after the battery/cables have been checked and original codes are cleared, then I start where they send me...

The compression and leak down tests would be good tests to do..... if they check out OK, at least you will now have baseline numbers for future issues...

I would also do a fuel pressure test as he suggested.

I suspect by this point, you will have a clue as to where else to look....

Just remember, it is possible your noise and and non/poor-running issue are not related. So don't get sidetracked chasing down the noise just yet. If you do a systematic diagnosis of the non/poor-running issue, and the noise is related, you will be led to the source...

Good luck and report back what you find....


A couple of side thoughts:

Not sure why you want to buy a compensator and clutch basket... You have the older style compensator, that was almost bullet proof. The MoCo upgraded the comp in '06+ Dynas and all the other '07+ models. That was the comp with all the issues... I wouldn't buy anything for the primary before an inspection of what's going on in there.

You do have the spring cam tensioners. You WILL need to address those. When you do, if you remove the old pushrods instead of cutting them (as I do) by going in from the top... you will have to open up the rocker covers. You can inspect the rockers at that time. Even if you want to take this opportunity to do that bit of maintenance now.... I would still try to pinpoint your current issue(s) before taking the engine apart...

Finally, do yourself a favor, get an HD Factory Service manual... You need part #99482-06
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11551028932...Bk9SR_r4hbLiYA
 

Last edited by hattitude; Sep 6, 2022 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Sep 6, 2022 | 11:17 AM
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This is odd, I have a very similar sound, from the very same location. I brought it by the Indy a couple days before my roadtrip. He took it for a ride, brought it back and said. Ride her, she's fine. Over 2000 miles later, not a problem (hope I did'nt just jinx myself). I had a fairing on my bike last year with an extremely loud system, so I hardly heard the bike. But this after taking it off I hear every lil sound now, but I don't think about it anymore.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2022 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 04FXDI
This is odd, I have a very similar sound, from the very same location. I brought it by the Indy a couple days before my roadtrip. He took it for a ride, brought it back and said. Ride her, she's fine. Over 2000 miles later, not a problem (hope I did'nt just jinx myself). I had a fairing on my bike last year with an extremely loud system, so I hardly heard the bike. But this after taking it off I hear every lil sound now, but I don't think about it anymore.

Most likely you are fine....

Twin Cam engines vary as to how much "noise" they make....

Having a fairing or just a windshield will significantly change the "heard" noises from the driver position. They reflect those noises back at you...

I rode my 2003 Heritage for many years without the windshield. Then a few years ago, I decided to start riding it with the windshield. Boy, that engine sounded different...!!! It bothered me at first, but now I hardly notice...

The OP, if I read his post correctly, said the noise is a recent addition to his bike.... I DO pay attention to any changes in noise from a bike or engine. It could just be from wear and tear as things "loosen" up, or it could be signaling a pending failure of some part....
 
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Old Sep 13, 2022 | 07:34 PM
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Default Compression and leak down.

I'll post footage asap. I didn't have time to mess with the video crap tonight. I put the bike up on lift. Did a compression test of front and rear cylinder. Granted the gauge I have is a scamazon special, it doesn't seem accurate, but it looks like 125psi on both cylinders. Next, I brought the front piston to tdc. Waited for the valve to pop open and close, then watched with a usb camera for it to reach the pinnacle. I applied 10lbs of air and could hear air passing through the intake the breather boxes on both sides. This also occurred on the rear cylinder with the same procedure. Piston was locked in place with brake applied to prevent it from moving.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2022 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rywolf01
I'll post footage asap. I didn't have time to mess with the video crap tonight. I put the bike up on lift. Did a compression test of front and rear cylinder. Granted the gauge I have is a scamazon special, it doesn't seem accurate, but it looks like 125psi on both cylinders. Next, I brought the front piston to tdc. Waited for the valve to pop open and close, then watched with a usb camera for it to reach the pinnacle. I applied 10lbs of air and could hear air passing through the intake the breather boxes on both sides. This also occurred on the rear cylinder with the same procedure. Piston was locked in place with brake applied to prevent it from moving.

That's not a good sign... getting leakage at only 10 psi.... if you set up the test correctly, something is leaking badly....

My leak down gauges use 75, 90, or 100 psi to test for leakage....



 
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Old Sep 24, 2022 | 08:14 PM
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Well, though I didn't expect it, the crank is pooched. The front cam bearing blew apart. The case is damaged. The cam shaft is damaged. I guess I'm going on the hunt for a crankcase. I probably could find a machine shop to figure something out... just not sure what all that would end up costing compared to buying a bottom end. Ugh. Wanted to update everyone as to what it ended up being. I'll probably keep posting video updates. If the thing didn't have sentimental value, I'd probably scrap it. Maybe someone has a suggestion for a bottom end.
 

Last edited by rywolf01; Sep 24, 2022 at 08:25 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2022 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rywolf01
Well, though I didn't expect it, the crank is pooched. The front cam bearing blew apart. The case is damaged. The cam shaft is damaged. I guess I'm going on the hunt for a crankcase. I probably could find a machine shop to figure something out... just not sure what all that would end up costing compared to buying a bottom end. Ugh. Wanted to update everyone as to what it ended up being. I'll probably keep posting video updates. If the thing didn't have sentimental value, I'd probably scrap it. Maybe someone has a suggestion for a bottom end.

Ouch.....!!

Sorry for your bad diagnosis....

But at least now you know what is wrong, and how to fix it...

Just like the 6 Million Dollar Man... you can make better than it was...!!

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress...
 
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